Salam! Privet! Greetings from Bishkek one last time!
Welcome to my final full week of adventure in Kyrgyzstan! What an interesting week it has been!
I'm grateful to have you join in my adventures for this week! How was your week? Who did you meet during the week? What effort did you make to introduce yourself and ask the name of the new person you were speaking with? What positive energy did you send out into the universe?
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| Inspiration from an Irish poet for our week! |
My week was interesting because of my constantly changing travel plans as I progressively convinced myself to minimize the activities I was going to proceed with. I've learned I do need to be vigilant on the relative ease that I can have with rationalizing how to avoid activities that involve a little extra effort. My past week was a classic personal example. I successfully talked myself out of returning to Bishkek by traveling around Issy Kul's south shore. My reason - extra effort to arrange multiple shared taxis and wanting to avoid staying in a yurt which is common accommodation on the south shore. I settled for the easiest option - returning to Bishkek on the Go Bus coach for my remaining four nights in Kyrgyzstan and join a couple one day tours originating from Bishkek. I also had the inconvenience of booking my four nights between two hotels because of room availability. Fortunately, the hotels were within easy walking distance and I was able to leave my luggage at one hotel while I spend one time at the other hotel. Lesson relearned about planning followed by effective execution. I could myself lucky for the minimal issues I had with my indecision and 'evolving' itinerary! 1st world problem I suspect many people would be grateful for. My heartfelt thanks to the universe for this blessing of travel I've been given! 🙏
A few things to keep in mind while you're traveling in Central Asia:
- ATMs are readily available in the larger communities. Withdrawals are without local fees. Yah!
- Electronic payments are commonly available. That said, many places only accept cash, like one of the Karakol restaurants I ate at. Keep cash on hand in your travels.
- Assume pedestrians have zero rights when crossing the road. If you set the bar at this level you'll be safer and pleasantly surprised when vehicles do stop for you while in a crosswalk!
- Walk lights are brief and switch from green to red immediately. Always a good idea to keep an eye on the traffic light timer for drivers that is counting down to the next green light!
- Used toilet paper goes in the bin next to the toilet (avoid putting in the toilet!)
- Public toilets usually charge a small amount of cash for using them. Good to have small bills/ coins with you in your travels
- If a building has two elevators, there is a good possibility the elevators operate independently! You can press both elevator buttons and take the first one that arrives!
Proud of myself this week! I'm posting this blog at the start of the week which is my target timing for publication. Thank you for your patience with my delayed postings over the past few weeks! 🙏
May the universe bring endless blessings and moments of magic 🦄 to you and your loved ones in the week ahead. 🙏
Travel Administration
Best advice - download the Yandex Go application (think of this as Uber for Central Asia) for booking taxis while you are traveling in Central Asia. You should also download the Yandex Maps and Navigator app if you want to have easy access to reliable schedule/location information on local buses/minibuses if you have any plans to use public transportation within Central Asia. Important reminder - you need a local phone number for verification when you are setting up your account.
Travel Update
I've now booked my:
- Egypt tour for September 5 - September 13,
- flight to Toronto for September 14,
- flight from Tirana, Albania to Cairo, Egypt for September 5, and
- flight from Almaty, Kazakhstan to Cappadocia, Turkey for August 18
- return flight from Toronto to Minneapolis for October 2 to October 28
'Bishkek is Kyrgyzstan's capital and the starting point for nearly every trip into the country. At 800 m elevation on the northern edge of the Tian Shan, it's one of the greenest cities in Central Asia — wide Soviet-era boulevards lined with towering oaks, poplars, and elms that turn golden in autumn.'
Bishkek is the most likely place you'll start your Kyrgyzstan adventure as it's the gateway to other destinations within the country. Osh does have an international airport, however, I think you may be inclined to travel westward into Uzbekistan rather than east, through the mountains to rest of Kyrgyzstan (like I did).
A couple days is likely the most time you'd want to spend exploring the capital. I deliberately skipped visiting Osh Bazaar, which in spite of its name, is located within Bishkek. Most travelers are looking to exit the city so they can go trekking, horseback riding and mountain climbing/biking.
I decided during the week to use Bishkek as my base for two different day trips:
- Visit Chon Kemin Valley including a three hour horseback ride (Friday) - cancelled cuz I was the only person signed up!
- Explore Ala-Archa & Chunkurchak Tour + Skybridge (Sunday)
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| Aikol Manas Statue |
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Toktogul Satylganov Philharmonic Building & Square |
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Aikol Manas Statue State History Museum in background |
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| Paramount Kyrgyz Republic Flag |
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| Flag, Statue and Museum together |
Hotel View
Here's the lovely view I woke up to for two consecutive mornings from my Damas International hotel room. I had to do some editing with the photos I took as there were two construction cranes between the mountains and the hotel window impairing my view!
Bishkek to Karakol Return
I opted for the 6.5 hour Go Bus air conditioned coach ride to reach Karakol via the north shore of Issy Kul.
My initial plan was spend three nights in Karakol then continue westward to explore the lake's southern shore. I changed my mind when I was unable to find accommodation I was happy with. Lots of opportunity to stay in a yurt by the lake if you wanted that nomadic experience which I wanted to avoid. I had my share while traveling in Mongolia. The idea of having bragging rights about traveling around the lake quickly dissipated.
I then considered traveling to Cholpon-Ata, a resort community between Karakol and Bishkek on the Issy Kul's northern shore. I could easily take the daily Go Bus for the two hour ride. Again, I failed to find accommodation on the lake that I was happy with. Another idea that was struck down.
My final idea was to return to Bishkek to take advantage of the various day trips into the mountains and canyons that were readily available.
I had an interesting personal revelation on the bus ride to Karakol. I deliberately selected a window seat on the side of the bus that gave me the best view of the lake during the trip. When I got on the bus there was a local woman, probably in her 50's/non-English speaking, who was firmly settled into 'my' seat. I certainly felt a little riled inside as it was apparent, given her hand motions and facial expression, she was determined to stay put. Embracing my fate, I settled into my new home in the aisle seat. Google Translate was helpful in having the occasional exchange with my bus companion. She too was heading to Karakol. She was kind enough to have the window covering open during the few hours we drove along the lakeshore. My three bracelets (malachite, tiger's eye and a simple bracelet I found on the beach in Barbados) were of interest to her. Here's a little info about two of my three bracelets:
Malachite (I bought in Peru): '
The core Malachite meaning is about transformation and protection. Often called the “Stone of Transformation,” it is believed to be a strong energetic cleanser that encourages risk-taking and meaningful change. Its swirling green patterns echo the constant movement of life, a reminder that growth often means breaking old habits and stepping outside your comfort zone. As a protective stone, Malachite is thought to absorb negative energies and pollutants from both the atmosphere and the body. In many spiritual traditions, it acts as a shield against electromagnetic pollution and unwanted spiritual influences. This protective quality also extends to emotional territory, where it is said to guard against emotional manipulation and give the wearer the strength to set firm boundaries. Symbolically, Malachite represents the healing green energy of the natural world. Its presence is believed to foster a connection to nature, promoting growth, abundance, and fresh starts. It is considered a stone that clears the path for personal and spiritual evolution by revealing what has been blocking your progress.'
Tiger's Eye (a gift): Boosts Confidence and Courage, Enhances Focus and Clarity, Promotes Emotional Balance, Attracts Wealth and Prosperity, Supports Physical Healing, Protects Against Negative Energy, and Strengthens Relationships.
My gratitude to my bus companion for asking the question about my bracelets. I'd lost track of their importance in my life. Timely reminder! I think, by the grace of the universe, I'm wearing the best two bracelets for me!
The journey to Karakol, other than the above, was uneventful. Our return trip was delayed 1.5 hours enroute by what I think was a military/police type of parade/celebration in the Cholpon Ata area. I had my window seat and a bus companion who kept to himself for the entire journey!
Issy Kul
'Issyk-Kul ('Hot Lake') is an endorheic saline lake in the western Tian Shan mountains in eastern Kyrgyzstan—just south of a dividing range separating Kyrgyzstan from Kazakhstan. It is the eighth-deepest lake in the world, the eleventh-largest lake in the world by volume, and the second-largest saline lake. It is located at an elevation of 1,607 metres (5,272 ft). Despite the elevation and low temperatures during winter, it rarely freezes due to its high salinity. It is the second-largest mountain lake in the world behind Lake Titicaca in South America.'
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| Issyk Kul |
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| Issyk Kul |
Karakol
I made the tactical error of booking accommodation that was located in an inconvenient location in many ways including being about 3.2 km (~2 mi) walk (slight uphill the entire distance) from where the bus stop was. I continue my education with using Google Maps as it guided me down a walking route that included gravel roads. My new home was also a 30 minute hike away from the mini-bus station. As for the positives, my location was quiet, near two excellent restaurants and Globus, a Kyrgyzstan supermarket chain I've become a regular patron of.
I had settled on visiting
Jeti Oguz as my great Karakol adventure. I decided to check in with the local Community Based Travel office as well as visit the city's tourist highlights. I learned/confirmed at the office that mini-bus 371 would drop me off at the Jeti Oguz village. I would need to take a taxi or hitchhike the remaining 12 km (7.5 mi) to where the picturesque Jeti Oguz (Seven Bulls rock formation) was located. It was just one of those weeks where I thought that was too much effort for a photo and a walk in nature. It is also the occasional liability of traveling on one's own where I can rationalize myself out of doing something!
What I share about Karakol is the local tourist sights I visited. Karakol is the place you travel to so you can join a multi-day trek/adventure into the surrounding mountains. I suspect this is a key ski destination given the number of ski shops I saw while exploring the city.
'Completed in 1910, the mosque was built to serve Karakol's community of Dungans (Chinese Muslims who fled persecution in the 1880s). Designed by a Chinese architect, the building is constructed entirely without nails and much of its imagery, including a wheel of fire, reflects the Dungans' pre-Islamic, Buddhist past. Instead of a minaret the mosque has a wooden pagoda.'
Aktilek Bazaar
The bus station and bazaar are in adjacent locations. Happy shopping for all who like to browse in a local bazaar.
Welcome to a church that is Karakol's second wooden religious building. By sheer coincidence, a woman working on the church grounds opened the church (and the church's gift shop) for the gathering group of tourists while I was there.
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Great truism about life and convenient reminder to have by your offering box |
View
Karakol is nestled on the edge of numerous beautiful mountains that are meant to be explored.
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| Early afternoon |
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| Early afternoon |
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| Early afternoon |
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| Evening on same day |
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| Evening on same day |
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| Evening on same day |
Sign of the Times
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| Downspout ingenuity |
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Oh, what do I do when both lights are illuminated? |
Delicious Meals
I had two amazing dinners and one fabulous lunch during my three night stay. The restaurants were about a 15 to 20 minute walk, on flat ground/slightly downhill, from my accommodation. Thank you to Google Maps for helping me!
You know you are in a good restaurant when it is crowded with locals. I ended up sharing my four person table with three young women who joined me at my table after I had ordered. It was a good reminder how dining rules can be different. Fellow patrons are invited to join in at your table if the space is available. My lunch companions also offered me a glass of compote which I graciously accepted.
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| Restaurant entrance/outside dining area |
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| Greek salad |
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| Plov |
My two dinners were at the same restaurant near where I was staying. Great service and great food!
Dinner #1
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| Greek salad |
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| Veal with mushrooms |
Dinner #2
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Beetroot salad. Beets are layered with cheese. Yummy! |
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| Manti (with meat). That's ketchup in the middle. |
Sunsets
July 28 - Karakol
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Best I could do with my location relative to the horizon |
July 31 - Bishkek
I had a better vantage point from my hotel room to catch Friday night's sunset.
Friends
I think how unsettled I was about what I was doing and where I was going throughout the week impacted on my energy and openness. I was definitely more preoccupied me and my travel plans throughout the week.
While I had a few conversations with locals, like my bus companion going to Karakol and the three young women who joined me for lunch, I had a week where I was devoid of learning anyone's name.
I also avoided the owner of the Karakol accommodation I was staying at. Again, it was more about me reading the situation as having less favorable energy with the owner and accommodation. I was perfectly happy on my own in this instance.
The woman at the Orient Hotel reception was thoughtful when I checked in for a 2nd time by assigning me a room away from the elevators. My room for my first night was located across from the elevators. This is a hotel where there was significant noise around the two elevators plus a phone between the two elevators that rang periodically. All this is unpleasant for a light sleeper like myself. I had mentioned to the young woman how noisy my experience was and asked if she could consider this information when I checked in on the following afternoon. I was blessed with having a room for my remaining two nights that was away from the elevators and away from the street. Thank you to the universe for her kindness and thoughtfulness!
Next Week
I'm looking forward to the day tour to Ala-Archa National Park and Chunkurchak Tour. We'll also visit a Skybridge and enjoy a national meal on our tour. Monday is a big day. I'm on a 2.5 hour flight to Astana, Kazakhstan's capital, where I'll be the guest of Meruyert and her mother Menslu. I'm also planning to fly to Shymkent on Saturday afternoon to explore that part of Kazakhstan.
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