I'm moving so quickly between the Scandinavian countries that I've become lazy when it comes to learning phrases in the local language. The other mitigating factor is how widely and fluently English is spoken wherever I now travel. Life as a tourist has become so easy since arriving in Finland!
The weather has been pleasant. The average daily temperature is high teens to mid 20's (65 - 71F). I've been so fortunate to have dry weather to date. Hot weather is unwelcome in this part of the world as A/C in homes and hotels is unknown (and has been unnecessary to date). Reminds me of where I grew up as A/C was very uncommon. You retreated to the basement of your home on those periodic/infrequent hot days.
This part of the world is very expensive as a tourist destination. Hotels can be up to 3x what I was paying in SE Asia without 3x the value. I'm finding the cities in Finland and Norway need more TLC as trash is commonly seen on the streets, garbage bins can be overflowing and generally suffering from a lack of attention. Feeling more like the North America cities that I now want to avoid.
Norway's west coast is stunningly and take your breath away beautiful. The rugged landscape, pristine waters and clean air are so energizing. I definitely want to return to Norway, in the warmer weather, to continue exploring this part of paradise on our precious planet Earth.
Cruising the fjord
I forgot to mention I bought a SIM card, without the need to produce identification) at the R-kiosk's Helsinki Airport location for about $40 CAD. I have a local Finnish phone number, unlimited data, local calling/texting throughout Scandinavia and the EU (Ireland) for 30 days. Relatively inexpensive and so easy to get. All I needed to do is install the card (instructions provided); my phone connected to the network automatically.
What would you think about an adventure working with horses in Mongolia. My friend Emily, who I met in Maldives, has now introduced the idea into my travel from her current adventures in Mongolia. I think she is living one of the dreams I have had. Something to ponder for next year - again during the warmer weather.
May the universe bring endless blessings (blessings in disguise) and moments of magic 🦄 to you and your loved ones in the week ahead. 🙏
Travel update: My most likely Irish destination is Belfast now - affordable accommodations have disappeared in Galway. I also thinking about a day trip to Londonderry which I missed in my first trip to Ireland. I grew up with the troubles in Belfast and Londonderry being part of the daily news, similar to the Vietnam War.
Travel Administration
Traveling in Finland and Norway has meant considering a broader range of living accommodations given the higher cost for hotel stays. A better understanding of the local public transportation is a companion requirement!
Travel Maps
I had to check last week's blog to remind myself where my week started! Kuopia in Finland's Lakeland District is where this week's blog begins. It was back to Helsinki for a couple nights before flying to Bergen for three nights. My week ended in Stavanger which is a four hour bus ride south of Bergen.
This is where bring their carpets and rugs to clean them. More than one place like this in the city
Another public beach near the harbour
Kuopio street
Looking towards harbour
Lake Cruise
My big adventure was taking a two hour lake cruise on Lake Vallavesi which included a series of brief historical highlights. A crew member used AI to generate an English translation of the Finnish commentary that he shared with me so I could follow along. He had also translated his commentary into Ukraine and Russian. BTW - the land borders between Finland and Russia are closed given the hostilities in the Ukraine.
I met a couple, a little older than me, on the cruise who were visiting from Turku, a Finnish port city on the southwest coast. They had a holiday trailer so they could comfortably visit for an extended period. They had owned a boat, camper van and various recreational vehicles throughout their married life. We had an engaging convo throughout the cruise. The wife, who spoke fluent English, provided translation for her husband who had less command of English. She had traveled in Indonesia much earlier in her life so she had a chance to relive some good travel memories. She did mention she was envious of my flexibility to travel to the different destinations I spoke about. She gave me a warm two hands handshake and wished me safe travels. Another wonderful moment on a trip blessed with wonderful moments! 🙏
Our lake cruiser
Commentary to accompany cruise
Calm waters, beautiful scenery
Another day in paradise
Crew member assisting me on my quest to find Kalakukko - where they are baked
Crew member showing me where the Kalakukko are sold in the town square
Local Food
The Finnair Customer Service Manager on my flight from Doha to Helsinki recommended I try Kalakukko while I was visiting Kuopio.
Kalakukko is a traditional Finnish savory pie filled with fish and pork, baked inside a loaf of rye bread. It is a specialty of the Savo region of Finland, and is particularly popular in the city of Kuopio. Kalakukko is typically made with vendace (muikku), a small freshwater fish, but other small fish such as perch (ahven) or smelt (särki) can also be used.
I did make my Kalakukko purchase on my way to the train station. I had to go to an alternative vendor for my purchase as the recommended vendor only had whole portions (about 1 kg/2.2 lbs) available.
The berries below came from Kristi, the woman who owned the apartment I rented. I received them as a form of compensation after she unexpectedly tried to enter the apartment while during my stay. Truly unnerving to have the door being opened and someone reaching in to undo the safety chain. Kristi was most apologetic about her intrusion.
Lots of Kalakukko available for purchase
My purchase - a quarter of the whole
Berries from the woman who I rented from
Helsinki Reprise
My last stop in Finland was back in Helsinki for two nights. I must admit these capital cities are losing their appeal in my travels. While they may have historical significance or interesting places to visit, they are also much more impersonal, busy and somewhat dirty.
On the train again
I've inserted these photos to share what my train experience was like. 2nd class seating all the way.
Train from Kuopio to Helsinki. Similar train to the Santa Claus Express I took.
Train seating - very uncomfortable if you travel 11.5 hours overnight!
City Sights
Interesting sculptures
Another angle
Helsinki Central Park
Natural beauty
Natural beauty
Natural beauty
Natural beauty
Funny story - I thought these people were offering coffee and treats to homeless people. I asked if I could make a donation. I was wrong. It was a company event offering employees coffee and treats. I left with a coffee and sweet.
My big tourist highlight during my return visit to Helsinki was visiting the Sea Fortress. The Suomenlinna sea fortress is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Built over a period of three centuries, the military architecture of the six fortified islands recounts the history of the Kingdom of Sweden, the Russian Empire and the Republic of Finland. It's a historical site that has personal residences nestled in the historical buildings. Lots more info available by clicking the link above.
I met a couple who were originally from Rochester, New York (just across Lake Ontario from Toronto) who were now living near Key West, Florida. Their president seemed to creep into our convo.
Helsinki Harbour
Uspenski Cathedral
Helsinki Cathedral
Gotta know where you are going
King's Gate
Fortress ferry terminal
Our public ferry to the fortress
A statue on my return trip
Bound for Bergen
Would you be surprised to learn that I had an interesting experience at the Helsinki Airport? I did. As I was waiting for my backpack to make its way through the scanner, I asked a woman standing next to me how she was. Context - it's about 6 am. She had the longest pause before she answered she was ok. She then commented on how long it took her to answer my question. A short time later, as I was retrieving from backpack from the secondary inspection (my energy bars sparked interest from the security people for some reason), the same woman approached me to thank me for asking her how she was. She was suddenly in a much better mood which she appreciated, giving me credit for her attitude change. I did mention how I always respond the "How are you?" question with "Best day ever!"
The flight is about 2 hours. There is a train from Helsinki Central Station to Helsinki Airport that takes 30 minutes (minimal cost). Bergen Airport has a similar train service to the Bergen Sentrum with stops at the bus and train stations. It's worth noting that Bergen's baggage carousels must be the most destructive carousels in the world. The luggage is propelled from the end of the conveyor belt onto the steel conveyor with such force that it damages the luggage (e.g. a roller was separated from a bag before our eyes!)
I had two objectives in traveling to Bergen - a fjord cruise in Flåm and visiting the country's fifth biggest glacier in Finse. I was blessed to have an experience that far exceeded my expectations. Definitely a location that requires a follow-up visit. I had tempered my expectations when I learned about the average number of days of rain in Bergen. The universe was incredibly benevolent during my three night stay.
Bryggen, the old wharf of Bergen, is a reminder of the town’s importance as part of the Hanseatic League’s trading empire from the 14th to the mid-16th century. Many fires, the last in 1955, have ravaged the characteristic wooden houses of Bryggen. Its rebuilding has traditionally followed old patterns and methods, thus leaving its main structure preserved, which is a relic of an ancient wooden urban structure once common in Northern Europe. Today, some 62 buildings remain of this former townscape.
This long winding queue is for a sausage on a bun. Go figure!
Bergenhus Fortress is one of Norway’s oldest and best preserved fortifications. The Fortress has a long history as a royal seat, episcopal see and military seat of power.
Church is one of the two remaining original fortress structures
Tower is 2nd remaining original fortess structure
It is all about the moment
Enjoy my first sunrise in Bergen, Norway. BTW - Bergen experiences an average of 222 days of rain throughout the year.
Fløibanen is a funicular railway—a type of cable railway that runs on tracks up a steep slope—connecting central Bergen with Mount Fløyen, one of the seven mountains that surround the city. In just a few minutes, the funicular whisks you from sea level up to an altitude of 320 metres (1,050 feet), revealing stunning views over Bergen, the fjords, and the surrounding mountains.
Click on Webcam to get the same view I did while enjoying the experience from the comfort of your viewing location.
I met two different couples during my brief mountain top adventure. There was the German couple who shared what an amazing time they had visiting Western Canada. They had flown into Calgary, then got on a tour bus for the next 16 days to travel through Banff, the Rocky Mountains into Vancouver, Whistler and Vancouver Island. They noted the bus trip had a hectic pace. Wondering how they would feel about traveling with me and the pace I sometimes keep! Hahaha.
The second couple was from Sydney, Australia who had just returned from Lofoten, Norway an idyllic destination located in Norway's far north. My friend Mike had put this location on my radar. Sadly, this destination will need to wait for a return visit given its remoteness. The husband and I got so engrossed in chatting that the spouse had to step in to remind him that they had be on their way.
Gazebo and gardens - great combo
On my way to the terminal
Up we go - trusting the maintenance people are doing their jobs
Want to experience one of the world's most spectacular train journeys? Let me share some photos to give you a small sampling of the non-stop beauty awaiting you! The link I've shared also leaves you with an enriched appreciation of this area's magnificence!
The Sognefjord is the fjord with the most to offer, with the Flåm Railway, Jostedalsbreen Glacier, Jotunheimen National Park, Rallarvegen, UNESCO Urnes Stave Church, the valley Aurlandsdalen, UNESCO fjord cruises, guided glacier walks, and the most beautiful and popular hiking trips in all of Norway.
I need to mention Norway's most popular cycle route, Rallarvegen, the Navvy Road, which ends in Flåm, and is a journey through both majestic nature and fascinating cultural history.
Getting to Flåm requires taking a train from Bergen to Myrdal, then taking an hour long ride for the most scenic train ride in your life on the Flåm Railway to Flåm. One (of many) highlight on the train ride is stopping at Kjosfossen. The train stops for a few minutes so you can get off the train. On some days, the flow of water is so great that you can feel the water from the waterfall against your face! We were also treated to the Huldra performance at the waterfall.
My initial thought, once I arrived in Flåm, was to find a cruise that fit into my return train schedule. Talk about operating on a wing and a prayer. I'm relieved (and delighted) to say I managed to purchase that last ticket for the two hour Fjord Cruise from Flåm to Gudvangen leaving at 3 pm (about 15 minutes after my arrival). Heartfelt thanks to the universe for the last minute miracle.
I met a couple women (Leeann & Marnie) from London while waiting to board the electric boat. We spent the two hours together on the boat enjoying the sights and a most amazing free ranging convo. I also met a guy from Italy who reminded me of Simon (also from Italy) who I met while in the Maldives. A twenty minute bus ride from Gudvangen to Flåm brought closure to the cruise experience!
The people I met on this trip was a couple visiting from Madrid. She was 61 years young, having grown up in Brasilia, the capital of Brazil. She had moved to Madrid three years previous and fell in love with the man sitting next to her on the train. Another wonderful convo to wrap up a day full of incredible sights and most interesting people.
Introducing Finse, a tiny place high up (1222 m/4009 ft) in the mountains of Norway that's long been used as a training base for polar explorers. In fact, winter conditions on this mountain plateau are said by many polar explorers to be as close as you can get to Antarctica without traveling south. It’s dry, cold and isolated, with very little natural shelter when the fierce winds blow. Roald Amundsen, Norway's most famous explorer, spent at least some time in Finse training for his expeditions, as did fellow polar explorers Ernest Shackleton and Robert Scott.
I traveled to Finse intending to hike to Norway's fifth largest glacier, assuming the rain that was forecasted held off. I was blessed with a couple short showers during the four hour (12 km/7.5 mi) hike. The cold, howling wind was a constant companion during the hike. I arrived at 1:30 pm and was back on the train to Bergen before 7 pm. Of all the hikers I met during my trek, it was the young woman in running shorts and sneakers (with very red coloured legs) who was most notable. I felt overdressed after seeing her. Number two on the list was the couple hiking with their nine and six year old daughters. I thought those girls should have been dressed better for such a cold day. Sometimes it's real tough to avoid being judgemental.
Click on this link if you'd like a live view of the Finse train station and surrounding buildings. You'll notice a yellow painted house on the right hand side in the background. I spent three hours talking with the owner, Eirik (Erik), on my return train trip to Bergen.
I met a Danish couple while warming up/waiting in Hotel 1222. He had completed his PhD (Geology) in Newfoundland (Canada's most eastern province) and ended up living eight years in the province before meeting the love of his life and moving to Denmark. He was originally from the Netherlands where he had met a visiting professor from Newfoundland who enticed him to do his PhD in Canada. I learned about the Star Wars connection through his wife who had retrieved a photo album at the hotel with photos from the movie production. They also introduced Skagen, Denmark into my Danish travel itinerary.
As I mentioned I sat next to Eirik on my return train trip to Bergen. He said he was one of six permanent residents in Finse. His primary employment was a pipeline inspector for a Norwegian company that was recently purchased by a German entity looking to round out its pipeline inspection capabilities. Eirik had done international traveling for his pipeline inspections. What made his company unique is that their pipeline inspections involved pipelines with different diameters with the requirement to pull the inspection module inserted in the pipeline back to the pipeline insertion point. His real love was the glacier hiking company he and a friend operated in Finse. Eirik had been in Finse for the day to help out his team on a hike. My 57 year young friend was on his way to Bergen to install a kitchen in his and his girlfriend's apartment that had been delivered earlier in the day. I also have a lot of background in Norwegian politics, economics and taxation now. Very expensive country!
Bergen Station
Bergen Station
Scenery on the way
I'll be following the red dotted line on the left
More facts and figures
My objective in the distance
Oh great, snow!
Hiking surface
It was a dark and windy day. Notice the red trail marking on the stack of rocks
Finse from across the lake
Glacier for the next visit
Whew! On the right trail!
Glacier runoff plus rain from morning shower
Bridge to cross
Glacier runoff
Success! Now for the return hike
Always seemed to be another hill to climb before I reached the glacier
Red 'T' were positioned every 30 m to keep hikes on the trail
Flowers are 4000 ft
Blaisen was my destination
More flowers
More info - read before you go
Wind off this lake was harsh
All sorts of options
Always interesting the warning signs that are necessary. Go figure that people would start fires inside a waiting room!
My next Norwegian destination was Stavanger where I planned to embark on a second fjord cruise which included seeing the Pulpit Rock (Preikestolen). It was named the world’s most breathtaking viewpoint by Lonely Planet. Towering 604 metres above the Lysefjord, it was used as the location for a Tom Cruise nerve-wracking scene in the film “Mission: Impossible – Fallout”. More about the Rock in next week's blog. BTW - I learned about Pulpit Rock after arriving in Stavanger. The universe continues to bless me in my travels.
Bus Trip
The comfortable four hour bus ride to Stavanager included two ferry crossings that were integrated as part of the highway (E39). The first ferry crossing was 45 minutes, the second was 25 minutes. We were blessed with calm seas, fortunately with minimal waiting time at each crossing. Something about a passenger bus have priority in the queue! What continues to fascinate me is how much food and treats people buy when traveling on ferries.
First ferry crossing
First ferry crossing
First ferry crossing
Approaching ferry terminal
First ferry
2nd crossing
2nd ferry terminal - just another hour on the road to reach Stavanger
Stavanger City Sights
Sharing a few photos from my meanderings around the city's port and harbour.
Petroleum Museum - Stavanger is home to Norway's oil industry.
Walk with me to explore Europe’s best-preserved wooden houses in the old town, Gamle Stavanger. Unfortunately, these houses have been whitewashed for some reason. I've learned if you chip away at the whitewash you'll find a whole range of colours that were used in those times. Whitewash was too expensive at the time these houses were originally built. At least that what I learned while visiting the Archaeological Museum!
Administration
I've now rented apartments in Finland and Norway through Booking.com where the location and cost made sense. I've been fortunate the apartments have been clean and well equipped. Two places had a washing machine that I was able to use. A key part of a successful stay is having all the necessary information from the apartment owner to access your accommodation on your own. Clear instructions on the location, the codes for any doors and code sequences are essential. I also have input the owner's phone number in my address book so I can text the owner if and as required. Everything has worked out - to date. The only wrinkle was an incomplete code I was given for my last apartment. I was able to figure out the missing part (use the unlock button before and after entering the number sequence) based on a previous experience.
The second part, which is equally important for booking hotels, is investigating public transportation access. I've stayed at locations away from the city centre that had great bus and/or metro access which made getting around easy. Google Maps and reading comments from people who have stayed at the accommodation are great resources to find the place that suits your needs.
Next Week
I finish up my stay in Stavanger, then take a bus to Oslo for two nights. I travel by bus/train (about 12 hours) to Sundsvall, Sweden on Wednesday for the next three nights. Sundsvall is located on the shores of the Gulf of Bothnia across the water from Finland. I'll end the week in Stockholm for the first of two nights in the city.
I'd be delighted and honoured to 'see you' next week! Stay happy and healthy!
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