Sälem! Pivet! Hello!
Greetings from Shymkent, Kazakhstan!
I'm grateful for your time and interest to join in my latest adventures in Kyrgyzstan and Kazakhstan. What an eye opening time being in Central Asia has been for me. I now understand why the people I've met in my travels express sheer excitement and envy when they heard I was traveling to the 'Stans'. Meeting Meruyert and her mother Menslu in Maldives, along with their generous offer to host me in Astana, has been the most special blessing in my recent travels.
The weather has been warm, bordering on hot, and dry in the past week. I'm finding the changing weather pattern everywhere I've traveled, more hot weather everywhere, is requiring more people to install air conditioning for relief from the heat. I've also noticed there is a absence of ceiling/standing floor fans starting in Mongolia and throughout the 'Stans'. Potential business opportunity???
I've experienced an interesting and important personal learning as I've traveled in Kyrgyzstan, Uzbekistan and Kazakhstan. The experience was triggered by hearing so many people speaking Russian. I grew up in in the Cold War era when there still was a Soviet Union and the ongoing geopolitical tensions between the USA/Western countries and the Soviet Union. While the Soviet Union disappeared in 1991, it is now apparent much of what I grew up with from a Cold War perspective remains mulling about in my consciousness. The world order has changed, I've just failed to keep up with what that has meant for my travel! I think my ignorance of Central Asia may be influenced by my perception of the world (Soviet Union as an undifferentiated geographical area) earlier in life, and, of course, the lack of any effort on my part to investigate what's different. Everything about this part of the world was 'painted' with a Soviet Union brush without any recognition for the different countries and cultures found in Central Asia.
My lesson learned leads me to encourage you to take the time and research the Central Asian countries as potential travel destinations. I suspect you'll find, like I'm finding, there is:
- incredible natural beauty to explore, hiking, mountain climbing, horseback/camel riding, skiing and time on the beach.
- a wealth of history dating back centuries (including the Silk Road),
- warm and embracing citizens in each country,
- safe to travel (man's perspective),
- amazing food,
- accessible, and
- lower costs.
Spring and autumn may be your preferred travel periods when the temperature is more comfortable. It can be smoking hot in the summer and freezing cold in the winter.
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| My dear friends - Meruyert and her mom Menslu |
A few things to pay close attention to while visiting Kazakhstan. Keep an eye on whether you need to lift your feet when you pass through doorways. Many thresholds have the door frame raised from the floor. In Astana, you can dispose of your used toilet paper into the toilet. Drivers 'tend' to stop if they see someone crossing the street in the crosswalk. Be prepared, on occasion, for drivers to drive behind or in front of you.
I also want to highlight what a people friendly city Astana truly is. Most everything I read about the city talks about its futuristic buildings and shopping. I'd encourage you to visit the city to experience its deliberate and thoughtful design for how people might be embraced through green space, boulevards, walking/hiking trails and public transportation. Unfortunately, like other large cities, it does experience traffic congestion during peak morning and afternoon periods!
May the universe bring endless blessings and moments of magic 🦄 to you and your loved ones in the week ahead. 🙏
Travel Administration
Here's an important travel tip when visiting the Bishkek and Astana International Airports. The only place where you can find filtered drinking water in both airports once you are through security screening is in the nursery room. Yes, the nursery rooms. Why is this important for me? I carry an empty water bottle through security with the intention filling it at a filtered water station (found in many airports) and save the planet by avoiding the purchase of more bottled water. I learned about looking in the nursery from a sales associate in a Bishkek duty free shop. The universe provides blessings in many unexpected ways through my travels! 🙏
Travel Update
I've now finalized general travel plans/booked flights/accommodation (except Seychelles) until December 26. I return to Canada on the evening of September 14, staying in Mississauga. I fly to Minneapolis on Friday, October en route to Eau Claire, Wisconsin. I fly back to Toronto on October 28 for two nights. I board an Air Canada flight to Barbados on October 30 where i take up residence in the Seaglass Cottage, next door to my friend Sam, for next three weeks. I return to Toronto on November 21 for a few night before starting my journey to the Seychelles on November 27. Whew!
Travel Maps
My past week was a far simpler week of travel. A flight from Bishkek to Astana, a road trip north to Borovoe from Astana and finishing up the week with a flight from Astana to Shymkent.
Kyrgyzstan: July 22 - August 3, 2026
Intercountry Travel: Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan to Astana, Kazakhstan - August 3
Kazakhstan: August 3 to August 18, 2026
Ala-Archa & Chunkurchak Tour + Skybridge
This tour, on my last full day in Kyrgyzstan, was my opportunity to have a better 'first-hand' experience in the country's mountainous area. Our destinations were within easy driving distance (about 60 km max from Bishkek) so we had time to explore the areas where we had stops.
My small tour group included a South Korean family of four, father and daughter from Russia, a Latvian woman who was traveling with an American friend of Egyptian descent and a mother, daughter and friend from an unknown country. Very interesting group to spend the day with. I had spoke with everyone on my tour which was both interesting and engaging. Ben, our young tour guide, did a great job! He had spent four years in Kaohsiung, Taiwan teaching English. The gift of my travel gives me a common connection (and a sense of familiarity) with people I meet wherever I go.
Skybridge
Our first adventure was hiking to/across a suspended bridge over a small canyon with a chance to take photos of the canyon and surrounding area.
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| Skybridge over canyon |
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Note the bungee jumping platform on right
Now closed due to a bungee jumping death! |
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| Looking towards Bishkek |
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| Canyon |
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| Canyon |
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| Striking the pose! |
Chunkurchak Valley
We had a brief stop on our way to lunch to experience the breathtaking beauty of this valley you witness in the photos below!
'Chunkurchak is a beautiful and serene valley located in the foothills of the Tien Shan mountains in Kyrgyzstan known for its stunning landscapes.'
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| Beautiful day for a tour |
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| Ski resort |
Lunch
We enjoyed a traditional lunch at a popular resort situated about 45 minutes from the Skybridge and 45 minutes from Ala-Archa National Park, our last destination. The main course was noodles with shredded beef as a topping. We also had sliced tomatoes and onions in a marinate. I've successfully avoided have the fermented mare's milk (qymyz/kumis) that was offered before we enjoyed our lunch. It is a prized drink throughout Central Asia including Mongolia. Read all about the milk
here.
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| Resort name |
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| Above the restaurant location |
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| Our lunch |
'Situated just south of Bishkek, the capital of Kyrgyzstan, Ala-Archa National Park serves as one of the country’s most accessible and popular protected areas. The park encompasses rugged mountain peaks, glaciers, alpine meadows, rivers, and conifer forests that form part of the greater Tian Shan mountain system.'
We enjoyed a delightful 2.5 hours walking along the river valley and riding the newly installed cable car for a panoramic view of the surrounding area. There are several hiking trails in the park if you have the time to explore.
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| Park info board |
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| Cable car opened earlier this year |
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| River valley with hiking trail |
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| View from cable car summit station |
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| Cable car summit |
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| Yes, that's snow at the peak! |
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| River side relaxation |
Enroute to Astana, Kazakhstan
I discovered a public bus that left Bishkek's downtown area destined for the airport. My good fortune was that you can pay cash for a ride and get dropped off at the airport terminal building. I enjoy the challenge of finding public transportation options to travel from the airport/bus station/train station to my accommodation.
An interesting fact about public buses in both Kyrgyzstan and Kazakhstan is that the 'stop' button has been disabled as the bus stops at every bus stop.
Bishkek International Airport
A touch of familiarity at the duty free shop when I saw these bottles of rum distilled in Barbados. Mount Gay Eclipse was one of my favorites back in the days when I used to drink. I'd have a glass of rum in hand as I watched the sunset.
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| Rum from Barbados |
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| Two types of Bajan rum - what a treat! |
Approaching Astana
Pardon the blurry photos, my window needed serious cleaning. What I wanted to share was how the flatl the terrain is and how it seemed to go on for ever around the capital!
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| South of Astana |
Unbeknownst to me, I was about to embark on the most extraordinary adventure of hospitality in my travels. My hosts, Meruyert and her mother Menslu, were the most gracious and generous people I could be blessed to know. Quick reminder - I had met Meruyert and Menslu in February on a Maldivian island. They had invited me to visit with them should my travels bring me to Astana. And that's how Central Asia became part of my itinerary as I worked my way towards Egypt in September.
I was greeted at the airport and escorted to the one bedroom apartment that was my home for the next five nights. My hosts are without their own vehicle so all of our travel is by taxi! After having a quick shower, my hosts treated me to a wonderful fish dinner followed by walking around Astana's core including the pedestrian walkway leading to the Presidential Palace on one end and Khan Shatyr, the world's largest tent shopping complex on the opposite end.
The following evening, I was blessed with visiting the mosque where my hosts pray which included ascending one of the minarets for a panoramic view of Astana and surrounding area. Our next stop was a ferris wheel where I had another aerial view of the city. After the ferris wheel, we walked through this gorgeous park area that follows the river which is the 'boundary' between the 'old' city and the 'new' city. I was treated to a breathtaking night time river cruise to experience the city through its lights.
Their plans to treat me to a traditional Kazakh dinner with traditional entertainment and a home cooked Kazakh meal had to be cancelled. A close friend of Menslu was arriving in Astana on Wednesday, accompanied by her daughter who required major surgery. It was her friend's first visit to Astana so she reached out to Menslu for her support. The major surgery was an attempt to restore eyesight in the daughter's eye that had been lost through a dental procedure that went tragically wrong. My hosts' generosity and kindness is without any limit!
My Astana visit is truly the most humbling experience. I have a reawakened understanding of what hospitality is all about courtesy of my hosts. May I also ask you to keep the daughter in your prayers for a speedy and full recovery of her eyesight! 🙏
My new home
I had a spacious and fully equipped one bedroom apartment complete with air conditioning in the bedroom. A most comfortable home for my visit. I am incredibly blessed!
A note about using the elevator. You need to press the floor you want to go to as well as press the button to close the doors. The elevator will stay put until you press the close button!
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| My new home is in the building on the left |
Night view
A broad pedestrian walkway, including a lighted fountain accompanied with music at regular intervals in the evening, leads to the Presidential Palace. Lots of people were strolling the walkway enjoying the warm summer evening. What a wonderful introduction to a new city!
'Baiterek monument is one of the most recognizable monuments of the capital of Kazakhstan. The monument itself contains a deep philosophical meaning that interprets the views of ancient nomads. 'The Ishim river (the left tributary of the Irtysh) represents the World river, on the Bank of which" grows "the Tree of Life — "Baiterek".
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| Presidential Palace |
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Columns on each side as you
approach Palace |
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Columns on each side as you
approach Palace |
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| Baiterek Monument |
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| Baiterek Monument |
Day view
I returned the following day to explore the core area. I took the bus as I was unable to successfully activate the Yandex GO app on my phone to order a taxi. I visited a Beeline Telecom kiosk to troubleshoot (unsuccessfully) my issue. The Beeline agent was both mystified by my issue and unable to provide a solution.
A word about using Astana's buses. Wonderful network of buses that can readily get you to everywhere you need to go. Now for the one catch. The buses are cashless - electronic payment (scan a QR code after boarding the bus) or by an Astra Plat transport card/app which is only available for purchase at only a couple inconvenient locations. You are unable to load the stored value in the app without a local bank account/card.
The Astana LRT stored value card, which can be purchased at any LRT station, is only usable on the LRT.
What all this information leads to is the fact I rode the buses for free as I was unable to pay for my trips. Heaven forbid I was checked for fare payment while on traveling on the bus! A solution to my public transportation predicament remains outstanding!
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| Looking toward Baiterek tower |
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| Lovers Park view |
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| Trying to be artistic with my photo! |
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| Looking toward Baiterek from Lovers Park |
I felt honored when I was invited to visit where my friends worshipped. What was unexpected was that I would be visiting the sixth largest mosque, by capacity, in the world! Truly a magnificent place of worhship!
Is the largest mosque in Central Asia, the second largest mosque outside the Middle East, and ranks as the sixth largest mosque (by capacity - 235,000) in the world. The #1 mosque (by capacity - 4,000,000) is Masjid al-Haram (Grand Mosque) in Mecca, Saudi Arabia.
The main dome of the mosque is the largest of its kind in the world. The entrance door of the mosque is considered one of the tallest wooden doors in the world, standing at 12.4 meters with a weight of one and a half tons. The material is made of hard iroko wood, which grows in tropical Africa.
The mosque has a capacity for 30,000 men and 5,000 women to pray inside the temple at the same time, while another 200,000 believers can be accommodated in the courtyard of the mosque.
The mosque's construction was privately funded without government support.
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Mosque entrance - Minaret on left has an elevator
leading to an exterior viewing area (which we visited) |
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That's me on the steps (in middle)
leading to entrance! |
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| Corridor |
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| Main interior prayer area |
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| Mind blowing chandelier! |
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| Photo of me - thanks Meruyert! |
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| Exterior view |
Astana Aerial View
What a treat (and a thrill) to be on a ferris wheel to see Astana! My hosts were so creatively thoughtful to include this experience as part of my Astana visit.
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| We're on our way up. |
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| Lights coming on after our ride |
Riverboat View
We reached/crossed the Ishim River after a short walk through a park area after our ferris wheel ride. The river divides the 'old' city (left bank) from the 'new' city (right bank). We boarded a riverboat that took us down the river, past the Presidential Palace.
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| Presidential Palace |
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| Columns on either end of Maral Bridge |
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| Maral Bridge |
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| Pedestrian bridge donated to City of Astana |
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| Pedestrian Bridge |
Borovoe (Burabay National Nature Park) Road Trip
I had included an overnight trip to Borovoe as part of my five night stay in Astana. Meruyert brought the destination to my attention through a WhatsApp photo update she shared earlier in the year. It's locally known as 'Kazakhstan's Switzerland.' It's about 245 km (152 mi) north of Astana, reachable by bus, train, or taxi.
A plan evolved whereby Meruyert and Menslu would join me, as my guests, on an overnight excursion to the park. Our plan changed when Menslu's good friend reached out for her support. With Meruyert's continuing assistance, I booked a taxi for my Thursday afternoon trip to the park.
The park is truly a gorgeous destinations. The 'dramatic' change in landscape, from steppes to mountainous and treed surroundings was refreshing. There is so much commonality with the Canadian landscape; left me feeling like I was at home.
I do need to return as my overnight trip was insufficient to explore the area beyond a morning walk around the lake. I think having a vehicle would be helpful to get around to the different areas within the park.
'Legend says that when Allah was distributing natural beauty across the Earth, the Kazakhs were left with only the vast steppe. Taking pity, he took remaining forests, lakes, and mountains from his sack and scattered them here, creating Borovoe. The result is 130,000 hectares of protected landscape featuring 14 lakes, ancient pine forests, and granite formations sculpted into fantastic shapes by millennia of wind and weather.'
Enroute
Flat and featureless landscape as far as the eye can see on the drive north from Astana!
Beach
Much of the beautiful sandy beach on the lake are privately owned. The Wyndham Garden, where I was staying, controlled a large section of prime beach. Rows of beach loungers, beach bar and access to various watersports equipment for water based activities. If you like swimming in water that is 'refreshing' (cold - 20-22°C/68 - 72F), this is the place for you! Just like the lake temperature we used to 'enjoy' growing up in Lac La Biche, Alberta, Canada. Yikes, it's so cold!
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| Mount Kokshe/Kokshetau |
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| Beach to the right |
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| Beach to the left |
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| Friendly fauna (or is flora?) |
Dinner
I had an interesting dining experience at a local restaurant. The young woman serving me initially handed me a Russian language menu, along with her offer, in English, to explain menu items. A short time later, she reappeared with an English language menu she was able to find. What made the experience most memorable was when my waitress, after putting my meal on the table, wished me 'bon appetit'. How appropriée! BTW - the food was delicious!
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| Greek salad - with a creative twist |
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| Tashkent Pilaf and traditional bread |
Morning Walk
The universe granted me a beautiful morning for a walk, on a paved path, around one side of the lake.
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| Easy walking! Thank you! |
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| Looked a lot like Canadian rock formation |
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| Mount Kokshe/Kokshetau |
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This unit has a speed bag to test
your punching power (for a price). They are
ubiquitous in Kyrgyzstan and Kazakhstan |
Enroute to Shymkent
Airport Sendoff
Meruyert and Menslu delivered me to the airport, ensuring I got checked in/luggage was tagged properly before they went on their way! What a most amazing experience! Thank you to my hosts for their time, generosity and thoughtfulness in hosting me. I do need to return, likely in late spring, to catch on he planned activities we had to cancel and explore areas outside the city. I look forward to the opportunity to reciprocate the hospitality I enjoyed when my hosts visit Canada - an open invitation has been offered!
More Aerial Views
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| Astana |
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| Astana |
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| Astana |
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| Astana |
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| Astana - Grand Mosque in foreground |
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| Flat and dry |
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| Oh look! Some variety in topograpy! |
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| Oh look! Some variety in topograpy! |
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| Shymkent Airpot |
My primary reason to visit Shymkent was using the city as the base for a day trip to the city of
Turkistan.
Airport to Hotel Bus Adventure
Remember how I said I rode the buses in Astana without paying my fare, hoping to avoid being checked for paying the fare. Thank goodness you can still pay cash on the Shymkent bus; no receipt though. The passengers were checked two separate times during the 45 minutes I was on the bus. I was thankfully ignored for the most part after I motioned towards the driver in an attempt to communicate I paid cash. Perhaps it was that dumb tourist look I managed to give when the person checking looked at me. The most common form of payment was scanning a QR code that is pasted throughout the inside of the bus.
Hotel Check-In Adventure
I thank the universe for the quick thinking and benevolent hotel reception staff when my bank card was declined because I was over my 'daily limit'. The fact I was over any limit was unwelcome news given I owed less than $300 Cdn for my four night stay (breakfast included). Aida, the hotel employee, suggested we try having my pay for one night, following up to pay the balance on Sunday, the next day. Yes, it worked like a charm. I paid for the one night with the commitment to pay the rest. What incredible discretion in her customer service approach!
How blessed I was that both Aida and Assel spoke fluent English! Such a gift, especially when life unfolds in an unexpected direction!
Meal
I enjoyed a delicious meal at a restaurant a short walk from my hotel. The minute I entered the restaurant and started speaking English, I was directed to a guy who was fluently English. He guided me to my seat and left me in the care of a waiter who had a good English vocabulary. My waiter suggested the tasty main course I ordered.
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| Traditional meal with beef, sliced tomatoes and soup |
Gift
In a conversation with Aida and her colleague Assel later on Saturday evening, Aida shared that she was celebrating her 21st birthday on this very day! Well, I had the birthday treat for her! I gave her a few pieces of the Taiwanese dark chocolate I still had. Funny part of the story is Aida's slight disbelief in my offering/sharing this chocolate. In exchange for the chocolate I shared, Aida and Assel gave me a Kazakh dark chocolate bar that is favored by everyone who visits Kazakhstan!
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| The chocolate bar I was gifted! |
Sunsets
August 06 - Borovoe Lake
Here's a sunset that I seemed incapable of getting enough of. It was a genuine treat to sit on a beach lounger to watch the sun set. Evoked wonderful memories of watching the sun set on the beach in Barbados!
August 7 - Astana
I was also able to capture a beautiful sunset from my Astana apartment on my last night in the city.
Friends
Meruyert and Menslu
I've been so incredibly blessed with the warmth, kindness and boundless hospitality I've enjoyed in my visit with my dear friends Meruyert and her mother Menslu. I hope my weekly post does justice to their generosity and thoughtfulness. I welcome the chance to host my dear friends when they decide to visit Canada.
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| Airport send-off |
Damr
I met Damr when I was checking in at the Wyndham Garden in Borovoe! This young man redefines customer service. I believe he went out of his way to ensure I had the best stay ever at his hotel. His first act of kindness was helping me schedule my return taxi ride to Astana. He convinced his fellow reception colleague that he should book my ride through Yandex Go as opposed to using the hotel sanctioned taxi which cost more than double! He also ensured he found a 5 star driver for the ultimate comfort and safety for my ride. He also accompanied me to the hotel's ATM when i needed to withdraw cash for the taxi ride. The reason he joined me was the ATM lacked an English language option so he knew I would struggle. He efficiently guided me through the screens so I could complete my withdrawal. He also made sure I took my bank card with me. Prior to my departure, he shared through WhatsApp, all the necessary taxi information I would ever need. He even contacted the driver to pick me a little earlier than scheduled as I was ready to leave. He accomplished all of this with his limited English and his huge heart! I am blessed!
Aida and Assel
My two English speaking superstars who work in the reception at my Shymkent hotel. I mentioned how their superior customer service at check-in saved the day for reservation. Aida added to the experience by highlighting, on a paper city map, some key destinations I should visit. She also mentioned there was an open air concert happening over the weekend that she encouraged me to attend. I was immersed in kindness and thoughtfulness from the minute we first spoke. Wonderful representatives for their hotel and their community. More to share in next week's post as their kindness and attention continued throughout my stay!
Next Week
I'm in Shymkent with plans to explore the city and take a day trip to Turkestan. I return to Almaty by overnight train on Wednesday evening. Early Friday morning (August 14) I join the Kolsai & Kaindy Lakes with Canyons 2-day group tour. I return to Almaty on Saturday afternoon to finish up the week. Shymkent weather forecast - temperature in the mid-30's (100F)! It's going to be a scorcher!
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