New Zealand (South Island) - Week of November 24, 2024

 Hiya! Welcome to our fourth week of traveling on the South Island. How are you enjoying the adventure so far? 

The week starts in Franz Josef/Waiau (West Coast), ending in Takaka on the Island's north end. Far less driving this week as I finish up exploring the West Coast and wind my way to reach Cape Farewell, the northern most point on the South Island. 

I've been remiss is sharing info on museums, history, art galleries and local culture. I am unlikely to be a good source of that info for you in my travels. I spend far less time on those areas of interest and more time chatting with people I meet and learning from their experiences. I ignore most of those informational signposts, other than the ones I share with you. I discovered most of what I read just disappears quickly from my memory anyways, so I've chosen the course to be much more selective in what I read.  

Let me briefly catch you up on one important historical topic from what I've noticed in my travels or people have shared with me. The South Island is famous for gold rushes, gold mining and coal mining. Loads of historical sites to visit if you're interested in learning more. Added bonus, you can reenact the goldrush feeling by visiting sites that offer you the chance to make your fortune by panning for gold.

Cycling - if you love cycling the South Island is for you. All kinds of off road trails and variety of terrain are available for all fitness levels. Do be prepared for several long and winding hills to pedal up. I'm in awe of the cyclists I see on the road, especially those cyclists about to make a long ascent, knowing the challenges (and sense of achievement) they must experience. 

I should mention I've been fairly consistent in mispronouncing the names of my various destinations - including both Maori or English names. I'm blessed to have the locals' support and patience in setting me straight on the correct pronunciation. 

My heartfelt gratitude to everyone who reading this blog. Thank you for taking your time to join me. I'm also grateful for my friends who are staying in contact while I travel. My appreciation for how blessed I am with having so many gifts of friendship has intensified during this adventure in particular. 

One last thought before we dive into the week. I'm finding every day of this trip so far has been filled with a multitude of small miracles. I'm grateful the universe has been so benevolent. I'm wondering if you find the same in your life. 

Stay happy and healthy my friends. 

Travel Maps

Tracking this past week's travel: South Island Travel - As of November 30, 2024. Well, I've now exceeded Google Maps capacity to track my South Island travel. I've had to turn to drawing lines between destinations for the remaining travel - until I can workout a different solution. 

Travel Administration

We tackle how to have clean drinking water without using bottled water and being prepared for first aid emergencies.

Franz Josef/Waiau to Greymouth

Ever find yourself wanting take just the right photo? I did with the Franz Josef Glacier. I felt compelled to visit the Glacier, for a third time, on Monday morning before heading north. Something about seeing a clear sky (well, somewhat clear) set my expectation for a better photo. Mission accomplished. 










Hokitaki Gorge

Next stop was the Hokitaki Gorge. Easy walk to bring to you these beautiful photos. Notice the water's color. Out of this world blue. Sediment carried in the water, in combination with how the sunlight reflects on the sediment, is responsible for creating this amazing color. 

Suspension bridges are everywhere

Love the blue







Looking towards river bed at end of gorge




Hokitaki

And what would a day be without making new friends? The universe continued to be kind with having the most interesting diversity of people to enter my story on Monday. 

Let me start with Zoe, the young New World (supermarket chain) young cashier, in Hokitaki. Zoe became immediately energized when she noticed I was buying McVities dark chocolate covered biscuits - a personal favourite when I'm traveling. I discovered we shared a common passion for this sweet delight. She was also kind enough to encourage me to sign up for the New World club card so I could take advantage of sale items. I left the store with my club card application in hand. BTW - I have the virtual card now. 

Chocolate delight in a package

Let's now meet Charlie, the most 'colorful' person I've met so far in my travels. Hokitaki is a seaside town so I decided to enjoy lunch at the beach. Given there was only one picnic table on the beach, I joined Charlie who was already sitting at the table. I think 'colorful' is appropriate for someone who drops the F-bomb for every second word he spoke. Charlie, who lives in Franz Josef, has been unemployed for several years. He has experience in building and maintaining fences - in case you have a need for his services. He was visiting the vet in Hokitaki to buy pills for his beautiful companion Benji - the stereotypical Benji - big, hairy and super friendly. When Charlie learned I was traveling to Greymouth, his strong advice was to stay away from the KFC. He also mentioned Greymouth had the sense of a town that was in decline (I'm paraphrasing) - which I now think he's right about.

Greymouth

Three welcome surprises awaited me in Greymouth. Remember, this is the town that Charlie warned me about being in decline. 

Downtown Greymouth
  • Copthorne Hotel - my home for one night
Copthorne Hotel Greymouth
Context - Experience suggests I lower my accommodation expectations for small towns. What a welcome surprise. This hotel was the best place I stayed since leaving Christchurch. Modern everything, lightning fast internet (650 mps plus - usually is 144 mps max), enormous TV and quiet. Phil, at reception, did a great job in making me feel welcome. I posted a Google review sharing my experience!
Greymouth Harbour - from hotel balcony















  • Best date scone ever - bakery discovery
Found the best date scone I've ever tasted at Blanchfield's Bakery; bakery has been in the Blanchfield family for five generations. This story gets richer. When I asked Sarah (who I met the next day) about when the bakery opened the next day, 5 am was the answer. I was then asked if I'd show up, like her, at 5 am. I assured her that was not happening. The story continues below...




  • Haircut with Billie
Now famous Greymouth Hair Salon
My disappearing hairline does need attention periodically. I met a most engaging 20 year old hairstylist when I entered the hair salon. Billie mentioned she believed her generation had a diminished interest/ability for in person conversations. She was quite the opposite. She was both interesting and engaging. She also mentioned she heard from locals that the hotel restaurant was a great place to dine. I had a great convo and received a fabulous haircut. I stopped at the Salon the following day to share my positive experience with the salon owner. The magic in life continues. Google review posted! 





Greymouth to Westport

Blanchfields - Revisited

Tuesday started with a visit at Blanchfields for a flat white coffee and a second date scone. I was so busy enjoying the scone the previous day that I forgot to take a photo (I do this frequently when food is invovled, don't I?). When I showed up at 7:30 Ashley (who I was about to meet) advised it would be a frosty day if Sarah showed up for work at 5 am. Lo and behold, Sarah delivers my coffee to my outside table, inquiring why I didn't show up at 5 am - like her. Love her sense of humour. Visit outcome - selfie with Sarah which Sarah insisted on doing, photo with Ashley (taken by a customer), I was introduced to Sarah's husband Matthew Blanchfield (the baker) and Sarah gave me a discounted price on the Pork Belly pie and date scone I purchased. I opted for the Pork Belly on Sarah's recommendation (tasted great)! We both agreed that I'd post a favorable review regardless of how the pie tasted. Another Google review posted.


Ashley's Flat White

Introducing Sarah

My date scone

Pork Belly Pie

Introducing Ashley






















Coal Creek Falls

A recommended stop was Coal Creek Falls, about 10 km outside Greymouth. The falls is a relatively short walk to a relatively small waterfalls - in light drizzle that was falling. Going on these treks are now part of my daily exercise regime given all the time I'm driving. As the photos show - exercise has its rewards. As I was returning to my car in the carpark, I met Maxie and Hannah sitting in their camper van. They were traveling the South Island after completing studies in Auckland. Another unexpected and most welcome convo. They highly recommended traveling to Cape Farewell (the Southern Island's northern most point) as well as driving on 90 mile of beach on the side of the island. They were unable to drive on the beach with their van. The important gift they gave me was encouragement to follow through on my plans to explore the North Island. I was having serious second thoughts of traveling the North Island as I did the South Island. I'm becoming very comfortable with the South Island lifestyle and pace of life. Kind of feeling like home right now. After our chat, Maxie and Hannah decided to skip seeing the falls in favor of visiting Blanchfields to meet my new friends and have a cheese scone!





Downstream from falls

















Point Elizabeth Walk

Point Elizabeth Walk was another recommended walking destination on the seaside just outside Greymouth. The walk that never happened. I took the photos of the beach from the carpark and drove on. Something about it being windy, overcast and cold. My exercise has its boundaries. 

Beach near Point Elizabeth Walk

Looking towards Point Elizabeth







Punakaiki - Rocks & Blowholes

About midway on the road to Westport is Punakaiki - Rocks & Blowholes. Truly breathtaking. Terrific visitor information center where I met three very welcoming agents people helping us tourists.  I discovered the Weka bird in the car park. The visitor center staff expanded my local wildlife education by sharing all sorts of Weka bird facts. I'm now going to take a wide berth from these birds. They like to take your food, are devious in that one bird will distract you while the other bird takes your food. 

'Notorious' Weka bird

Factoid - all national parks in NZ are free. The government is about to test charging a fee at Punakaiki - is creating an interesting local reaction.The oceanside drive from Punakaiki to Westport was spectacular. Ocean waves crashing, sheer cliffs - Mother Nature at her best. Apologies for the lack of photos. 

The Rocks and Blowholes, as you can see from these photos, are amazing. The walkway through the cliffs is set up perfectly to have a terrific experience. I missed out on the blowhole activity because I arrived about two hours after high tide, when you get the best blowhole experience. The added bonus was seeing seals just off the Rocks. 
















Westport

My first stop in Westport was at the Whanake Coffee shop for coffee. Definitely fits the description of being a quirky place that I read about after visiting. The shop has artwork for sale, knick-knacks and open space in the back to enjoy your coffee. Another gem unexpectedly discovered on the West Coast. 


Cape Foulwind

Adequately refreshed, I was off on a three hour trek to Cape Foulwind including highlights like Foulwind Lighthouse, the fur seal colony and Wall Island which is home to six types of birds. Foulwind is an apt description when you think about the combination of smell that originates from a seal colony and a strong wind. I loved the signpost that helped visitors orient to where the location relative to the rest of the world. 







Where to next?

Took two photos to capture all
destinations!


See photo with info board to learn more
about this navigation tool













Carters Beach

My final destination for the day was my Carters Beach accommodation which was across the road and small grassy area from Carters Beach. My internal radar keeps me returning to the water.  I wonder this constant pull to the water is related to me being a Gemini?? 

Factoid shared by Pete, my host, is Carters Beach is the only north facing beach on NZ's South Island.

Seemingly a non-ending, wind swept beach










My final blessing for the day was experiencing my first West Coast sunset - well, as you see, sort of.








Westport to Kohaihai Campsite

I like traveling with a full tank of petrol. I stopped at BP petrol station in Westport to fuel up. When I went to pay, I greeted the woman behind the coffee counter by saying 'Hello, my young friend'. It was both funny and revealing to watch as the two other people behind the service counter snapped their necks to attention in order to figure out who I was referring to. 

Traveling to Kohaihai Campsite was an important West Coast destination on my itinerary. The campsite is the furthest north I can travel, by road, on the West Coast. The campsite is also one end of the Heaphy Track (one of NZ's ten Great Tracks). The Heaphy Track takes 3 - 4 days from start to finish. Pete's suggestion was to walk the Heaphy Track as far as Scott's Beach which is about two hours return. In a bit of foreshadowing I drove near the other end of the Heaphy Track on my Saturday trip to see Cape Farewell. 

Karamea

the pantry refill
I stopped in Karamea for a bio break. Since my final destination was only thirty minutes away, I decided to take time to explore the village. I dropped in at 'the pantry refill' in Karamea out of curiosity; a sign outside the store mentioned trying biltong which was unknown to me. The store was another unexpected gem in a series of gems on my adventure. I discovered what biltong was (think beef jerky) as well as I discovered the store had double salted liquorice. Go figure that I'd find this type of liquorice in a place I think is the middle of nowhere (check out the map to verify). 

I also met Cynthia, store owner, who recently took over the store. She, her husband and four children  had recently moved from Hawke's Bay on the North Island to take over the store that I think was gifted to her. Cynthia takes kids for a swim in the river daily. I also met LeaRnn (in the store with me) who has lived on her own for the last 24 years with only the essentials. Yes, take note of how she spells her name. I mistakenly thought she said her name was Leeanne. LeaRnn has deliberately found a way to write her name so everyone pronounces it correctly. We had a great convo. Three of us were like minded people about watching TV (don't), listening to the news (avoid), etc. I also added the pantry refill, with Cynthia's knowledge, to Google Maps; I had to in order to post a review (the pantry refill).


Stasha - Thinking of your Reiki practice

Cynthia and LeaRRn


Store tour

Store tour

Biltong

My treasured liquorice





















Kohaihai Campsite

I resumed my travel to the campsite where the Heaphy Track has its start/end point. 














Scotts Beach

The Scotts Beach walk fulfilled my daily exercise requirement. It was thirty minutes uphill, then thirty minutes downhill each way. New Zealand's beauty is non-stop. The section of track I walked was well maintained. You can book overnight stays at government maintained huts on the track that are super comfortable. 

Oh look, a suspension bridge

What the trail looks like

Trail looking down hill

Trail looking uphill

Welcome to Scotts Beach

Scotts Beach

Scotts Beach












Carters Beach

I was back at Carters Beach to catch the sunset. I enjoyed my second beach sunset. A blessing at the end of day. 



A Day of Rest

Thursday was a day of rest and relaxation at the beach. I had an aborted attempt to visit the Denniston Plateau (Pete's travel tip) - home of the local gold mining historical site. The low cloud ceiling, which shrouded the plateau, deterred me from going through with the visit. 

As I was returning to my car after visiting an ATM (Factoid - Bank of New Zealand ATMs are free to use and they thank you for using their machines) my aborted Denniston Plateau visit I met Kathryn who greeted me as she was walking by my car. Enough of a spark to have a convo. I learned she was 63 years young and used to live in a studio apartment in Carters Beach. As she described all the places she had lived at over the past several months I had the impression she lacked a permanent residence - homeless, in a sense. I have had to pause to think about what I learned in that convo. 

I spent part of the afternoon walking the empty beach under sunny skies. Note to self - remember to apply sunscreen when outside - even if there is cloud cover. 

My day of rest included dining out at Donaldo's - a local restaurant about five minutes walk from my accommodation. The universe continued to be benevolent as I met Dave and Jenny who were just finishing up their dinner. He is a Master Mariner - was previously responsible for Nelson harbour. At 70, he is trying to find his way to retirement and keep active at the same time. When they learned I was traveling through Nelson, they kindly offered host me in their home for Sunday night. I've confirmed I will be their guest.

Takaka or Bust

Friday was time to say goodbye to the West Coast and head north for a five hour drive to Takaka. The trip involved a diversion that added 30 minutes due to road works. Maintaining roads in mountainous land is a constant need! 

Upper Buller Gorge Cemetery

One stop on my day's travels was visiting a cemetery that Gabriela suggested that was accessed just off the Lyell Camping Ground in Upper Buller Gorge. What made the cemetery interesting was its remote location up a steep path (10 minute walk) and how the beech trees and vegetation were reclaiming the cemetery.  Well, I failed to reach the cemetery. I met the wildlife (in the photos) on the way to the cemetery and decided to abort my trip. I thought turning around instead of bothering a mother, father and their young one was a wiser course of action.  














Takaka Hill

Imagine driving on a section of road that winds uphill for 10 km and winds downhill for 10 km. Winding means 257 curves. The website I've linked to in this post gives you a much better perspective on the drive and scenery. The drive is an experience in of itself. 

Mohua Motels - Takaka

Wow! Have I ever lucked out with my two night residence in Takaka. It was like I joined the Mohua Motels family than staying at a motel. Nimral, his wife Katrin along with Liam (8 year old son) and Ruby (age unknown) have become my latest adopted family. Nimral and Katrin recently purchased the motel and were building their own brand. They had moved from Berlin for their motel business. One brand building step was Nimral checking my room before I entered to ensure everything was to their standard. The room was modern, spotless, had plunger/plunger coffee along with the obligatory fresh milk. An added plus was a firm mattress. Several places I recently stayed at had soft mattresses which can be troublesome for a good night's sleep. I had several convos with them and their son Liam over my two nights. The experience was like being with what might be a great family; everyone was helpful without being invasive. Google and TripAdvisor reviews are pending!
That's my car in the photo




Sunset from motel courtyard



Golden Fresh Fruit Ice Cream - Takaka

Took this photo for Danaee to upload 
for her Google Maps presence

After settling in at the Mohua Motel I set out to explore the town including the FreshChoice supermarket looking for my dark chocolate biscuits (Success!). In my meanderings, I came across a portable kiosk selling ice cream. I met Danaee (the second Chilean I've now met in NZ) who operated the Golden Fresh Fruit Ice Cream cart on Highway 60 - main road through the town. She makes what has to be the world's best raspberry ice cream - rivals the raspberry ice cream I had at Veges Direct earlier this month. I was blessed that she had some time to chat between customers. I learned she is 45 years young, originally from Chilean town about 10 hours south of Santiago, married with a 17 year old son who masterfully played the piano (saw a video clip), lives on a dairy farm (200 head) with her husband who is part Chilean/part German. She started the ice cream business two years ago as supplemental income. As part of posting a Google review, I was able to add a photo of her cart to her business as well as request Google to edit her location as the store next to her cart was what appeared on Google Maps. (Golden Fresh Fruit Ice Cream)

Danaee in action

What would you like?

Dave and his ice cream
Was truly a beautiful day!

So delicious!














Destination - Cape Farewell

Saturday was the red letter day for visiting Cape Farewell about an hour's drive from Takaka. I stopped at Bacca bakery on my way to the Cape to purchase a pie - has become my go to lunch during this trip. I bought a Balkan Goat pie - the best pie that I've eaten to date. More about the pie below. 

Cape Farewell/Whararaki Beach

Info signpost/Cliff warning
You reach Cape Farewell after walking across a pasture filled with sheep poop. Our thanks to the locals for allowing us tourists to traverse their property as in search of our photo ops! Another spectacular location - even saw a couple seals playing in the water below the cliffs. While enjoying the Cape's views I met a couple from Arkansas who were in NZ for 15 days. They were on their way to Queenstown so they could bungee jump from the original location where bungee jumping started. God bless them in their adventure. They also let me know about Whararaki beach they just visited, on the same road, and only about 1 km away. I've included photos from both locations in this section. 
200 m walk to Cape Farewell Viewpoint


Cape Farewell - Sheer cliffs and arch

Seals putting on a show





Whararaki Beach

Whararaki Beach

Whararaki Beach



Whararaki Beach - entry point from path








Pohara Beach

Yes, the beach beckoned yet again; coincidentally at low tide. Out I walked on the beach - sunscreen applied. 
Beach as far as the eye can see

Bacca Bakery

Balkan Goat pie
Back to my Balkan Goat pie story from earlier in the day. I returned to the bakery to share my delight of eating such a fantastic pie. What made this pie special was the pie was filled with goat meat whereas many pies would have less substantiative contents AND the pie crust had a more flavorful taste. I met Chris, the bakery co-owner and baker, who took the time to show me the difference between the flour he used (organic whole wheat ancient grain that they mill themselves) and white bleached flour. We did discuss eikhorn flour which he said was unavailable in NZ plus almost impossible to import. The flour certainly made a great taste difference! 



Te Waikoropupu Springs

Te Waikoropupū Springs are the largest freshwater springs in New Zealand, the largest cold water springs in the Southern Hemisphere and contain some of the clearest water ever measured.
Water and reflections were spell binding

Crystal clear spring water - see right to bottom

Notice the pooling in the middle of photo - where 
water is rising from the spring


Water is so clean and clear

One last photo - surreal the colors and water clarity



Maori words of wisdom





Travel Administration 

I carry an emergency first aid kit wherever I go irrespective of where I live. When I have a vehicle, the emergency kit finds itself a home inside the vehicle. I also try to do my small bit for a better environment. I also carry a Grayl water purifier (Grayl water purifier bottles) so I have access to potable water everywhere I travel instead of buying bottled water. I have only used the purifier once on this trip when I was able to drink fresh mountain water from a stream on the way to Milford Sound. I have the 710ml GeoPress® Purifier - Chroma Edition.

Next Week

I'm rapidly approaching the end of my South Island travels. I'm off to Nelson, Blenheim and Kaikoura in the upcoming week with returning to Christchurch as the final destination (my rental is due back on December 12). As I mentioned earlier in this blog, I'm reticent about leaving the South Island given the experiences I have had. Being here feels good. Most, if not all I would want to do, is available on the South Island. Apolline, the great Haast crepe creator, sparked a thought about staying when she suggested in an email to me about finding work to extend my stay. I'm blessed to have options to consider. I'll see how the upcoming week unfolds. Much less traveling ahead. 

May the universe fill your life with endless blessings and many moments of magic!🙏



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