Indonesia - Week of March 16, 2025

Horas dongan dongan! Hello my friends! Welcome back to my last full week in Indonesia. This is the week when I was introduced to the Batak culture in northern Sumatra! I also enjoyed the magnificent Sumatran coffee! Strong and delicious

I should mention that my travel to Sumatra meant I was crossing the equator to the Northern Hemisphere. I'll be returning to the Southern Hemisphere when I fly to Jakarta on Sunday. I leave the Southern Hemisphere for the journey's duration when I fly to Sri Lanka on Tuesday afternoon and will enjoy watching water drain in counter-clockwise fashion in my future travels (instead of clockwise in the Southern Hemisphere).

I've been blessed with incredible warm, kindness and hospitality throughout my Indonesian travels. My new friends from the Harper Hotel (Yogyakarta) and Tabo Cottages (Lake Tabo) made me feel like part of the larger Indonesian family. They were also very patient with my mispronunciation of their language. I always feel a small tug in my heart as I leave the hotel and move onto my next destination.

The weather continues to be temperamental. Afternoon showers in Yogyarkarta. Overcast skies and cooler temperatures in Lake Tabo. Cool enough for me (24C/75F) to put on a jumper (sweater). Obviously, my body is slowly adapting to the local weather. I've been blessed to continue exploring without being impeded by the weather!

I have some data for those interested in facts and figures. I was speaking with my good friend Mike last week who had a few questions about Indonesia. Here goes:

Median age is 30.4 years
Fourth largest population in the world (~283,000,000) after India, China and the USA
Largest number of Muslims in the world - > 240,000,000
>17,000 islands
Java has the largest number of people

Batak dancers - Lake Tabo

Interesting to note that food has been readily available throughout my travels during this month of Ramahdan. Fabiana mentioned that people she knows did have challenges with getting a meal. I was in major cities where the hotel restaurants I stayed at, food stalls on the street and kiosks/restaurants in malls were open and busy. The iftar meal, first meal at the end of the daily fast, can be a foodie's dream meal.

Travel update - I'll be flying to Bangalore, India from the Maldives on April 9 for a couple nights. I'll then fly to Dimapur, the key airport in Nagaland. After a few weeks in Nagaland I'll fly to Chennai on May 3 so I can get together with Praveena's family on Sunday, May 4. On Sunday evening (May 4), I'll then fly to Taipei, Taiwan on Singapore Airlines with a layover in Singapore.

A final thought. I met Kevin on Sunday evening as we were both going to our hotel rooms after checking in. He asked me the following question - 'What am I looking for in all this traveling?' More about Kevin, who happens to be from northern Sumatra near where I was visiting, and my response(s) to this question next week.

Travel Administration

Let's talk about booking online using your phone vs having access to a laptop.

Travel Maps

This week's travel required a train (to airport), plane (flight to Medan, North Sumatra, a taxi (three hour ride to Parapat) and a ferry (45 min ride) from Parapat to TukTuk on Samosir Island.

Indonesia: February 25 - March 22, 2025

Yogyakarta

My purpose in visiting this destination was easy access to two temple sites I had read about - Prambanan Temple (ancient Hindu temple) and Borobudur Temple (world's largest Buddhist temple). The key challenge was finding how to get to each temple over a two day period without joining a full day tour. Most tours included a sunrise element which I wanted to avoid given the early start, inclement weather and extra expense (up to 2.000,000 IDR excluding the 900,000 IDR temple entrance fees) that was primarily transportation costs. Thank goodness for those travel bloggers who shared their experiences using local transportation as I was able to find what I was looking for.

While making the best use of my money is always a priority, figuring out how to use local transportation adds fun to my adventure and gives me a better opportunity to meet locals first-hand. The easy way is to spend money. BTW - many tourist destinations are closed on Mondays; similar to other places in the world.

My hotel's location was super convenient for my tourist activities. It was a 15 minutes walk from the train station as well as located on Malioboro Road - a key destination for shopping and prominent tourist destinations like Keraton - the Sultan's palace. Yogyakarta is one of two special districts in Indonesia that has autonomy over its governance which includes a monarchy and royal family.

Getting around - Commuter Train to Prambanan Temple

The easiest way to reach Prambanan Temple was riding the commuter train from the main train station. The total cost was 50,000 IDR - 30,000 IDR ($2.60 CDN/$1.82 USD) for the rail card necessary for tapping on/off and 20,000 IDR to load the card (minimum increments of 10,000). The return trip was 16,000 IDR ($1.39 CDN/$.97 USD). The train ride was 22 minutes; get off at the third stop. The temple was a twenty minute walk from the train station. I was blessed to have two very patient train station employees who helped me work through the mechanics of using the card, the train schedule and the total costs. Taking a taxi would have cost about 100,000 IDR each way.

Train schedule to Prambanan

Yogyakarta Train Station

Train schedule from Prambanan

Getting around - Shuttle Bus to Borobudur Temple

I decided to walk to the shuttle bus departure location to confirm the business was still in business given the conflicting information I read in the Google Reviews. The departure was a sign (photo below), an awning where a few people could wait and the shuttle buses - if your timing coincided with the departure schedule. I was fortunate to meet up with a guy who handled the bus logistics. He advised that his company had assumed the temple transportation contract and I would be good to catch a bus on Tuesday morning for the 90 minute ride to the temple. One way fare was 20,000 IDR ($1.74 CDN /$1.21 USD). My plan was to take the 7:30 am shuttle to the temple and return on the 1 pm shuttle. Taking a taxi would have been about 10X the shuttle bus cost/each way.

All the shuttle bus info available

Interesting sign - near directional sign

Bank of Indonesia

Bank of Indonesia building - shuttle bus backdrop

Bank of Indonesia

Directional sign
across the street from Bank/shuttle

Shuttle bus

Bank of Indonesia - main entrance

Sculpture in front of Bank building

Prambanan Temple

I made the journey to the temple on Sunday afternoon. I was taking somewhat of a chance as the general advice is to avoid the weekends as they tend to be busier with local people visiting. I had little choice if I wanted to visit the two temples in the four nights I was in the city. The temple entrance fee for foreigners is 400,000 IDR which is a lot of money relative to the cost of everything else in Indonesia. Locals pay considerably less. I had the blessing of an overcast day so I only had to contend with the humidity.

I've included several photos of the carvings for each structure to highlight the amount of artisanship and effort taken for each structure - mind blowing! Each temple had a different sequence of carvings to reflect each of the three god's deity - the Creator (Brahma), the Preserver (Vishnu) and the Destroyer (Shiva).

I also included a short video clip of the two men praying at the temple which brought special significance to my visit.

I had an interesting conversation with a fellow passenger on the return visit. My new friend was a psychologist (forgot to ask his name) who worked for the Indonesian Air Force in Jakarta after attending the best Indonesian university. He made the return trip home every weekend (six hour train trip/each way) to be with his family. He had ten more years before retirement. The government had recently extended the retirement age to 60 from 57. He mentioned a key issue facing the Air Force was the new recruits' relatively low IQ level given the lack of educational opportunities in Indonesia. He thought the situation was slowly changing for the better.

On the way to Brambanan Train Station
after visiting the temple

The lighting for these three statues
was almost eerie

Looking out from where the statue is
located in the temple

The lighting for these three statues
was almost eerie

Borobudur Temple

My journey to Borobudur Temple had a most unexpected twist. The plan was to board the 7:30 am shuttle bus to the temple. There was a time dependency as I had booked a 9:30 am temple tour. The first twist was the bus appeared at 8:00 am. The second and more significant twist was my newly acquired travel companion, Nur Rohman. I found myself in a situation where it seemed the tables were turned on me. He was offering his unsolicited assistance - something that I'm known to do. Nur was the consummate local host who wanted to do as much as possible to ensure I had a great visit. He sat next me on an otherwise empty bus and the conversation started. He shared information and photos about his home village, his family (wife and four children), his age (45) and his work in Jakarta. He shared videos of his kite sailing off the cliff edge. I got the full story. The situation got uncomfortable when we arrived at the bus station near the temple. He paid for my bus fare, suggesting that I could pay forward his generosity. Nur then organized (and paid for - 20,000 IDR) two motorcycles to take us to the temple which was two km from the bus station. Once we arrived at the temple's ticket office, he announced he was going to join my tour instead of his original plan to just walk around the grounds. Good news in this unfolding drama was that I was fortunate to be shifted to the 10:30 am tour given I had arrived late. Nur's unexpected generosity along with his decision to join me on the tour set off my alarm bells in a big way. I ended up dropping out of the tour to explore on my own and get away from Nur. I walked back to the bus station once I completed my temple visit. Nur met up with me at the bus station and choose to sit away from me on the return trip. We parted amicably, going our separate ways, after getting off the bus.

Now onto the temple. Borobudur remains the world's largest Buddhist temple. The entrance ticket (455,000 IDR - $40 CDN/$28 USD) included a one hour guided tour, a pair of sandals you were required to wear and a 300 ml bottle of water. The tour guide suggested parallels to Angkor Wat in Siem Reap, Cambodia (which I have visited), the world's second largest temple complex after Temple of Karnak at Thebes, Egypt, which I failed to fully understand. I was blessed, once again, with the chance to visit the temple with relatively few visitors being present. I tried to capture Mount Merapi, an active volcano that had erupted as recently as last year forcing the evacuation of thousands of people.

If you squint you may see Mount Merapi

Yogyakarta to Medan - Northern Sumatra

Remember my reticence in flying Lion Air given their poor customer service ratings and my inability to book a flight with them online from a few weeks ago? Well, the universe has a funny way about how life unfolds. The only practical flight available to Medan, Northern Sumatra, so I could get to my hotel on Samosir Island at a reasonable hour, was Lion Air's 7 am flight. I ended up booking my flight through Air Asia which solved the previous payment issue I had when I tried to book directly with Lion Air. The entire Lion Air service and flight experience was smooth and effortless; flight left/landed on time, my luggage showed up undamaged and in one piece.

Yogyjakarta International Airport

I took advantage of the Airport train service from the central train station by my hotel at a cost of 20,000 IDR (less than $2) for the 45 minute ride. A comparable taxi ride would have cost 10X the amount and taken up to 90 minutes. The only drawback of my early flight (7 am) is having to be on the 4:20 am train.

I continue to be impressed throughout the world with the investment each country is making in their airports. The Indonesian airports are grand structures that are indistinguishable from airports in any other part of the world.

Yogyjakarta International Airport

Lake Tabo

With help from the Tabo Cottages team, I arranged for a private car to deliver me to Parapat, the town harbour where I'd be catching the ferry to Samosir Island. My driver, Juni, was in the Medan airport arrival hall as agreed, ready for the three hour drive to Parapat. My alternatives was figuring out how to navigate the local buses using information I had garnered from other traveler's blogs. The prospect of taking a minimum of eight hours was a little too much adventure for me.

Highway

The initial half of the drive to Parapat harbour was on a four lane divided toll highway which was practically devoid of vehicles. The posted speed limit was 60 kmh/40 mph (minimum) and 80 kmh/50 mph (maximum) which I think may have limited enforcement. When the highway ended we continued our journey on the 'typical' local roads passing through communities (and associated congestion). Juni delivered me safely to the harbour in less than three hours.

Parapat - Gateway to Samosir Island

The harbour was quiet when I arrived with a number of ferries that were docked. I was the only passenger on the 1:30 pm ferry that delivered me directly to the Tabo Cottages's jetty. Cost for one way - 25,000 IDR ($2 CDN). Hopefully, the photos provide some sense of what a ferry ride on Lake Tabo is like.

Parapat harbour

The white vehicle was my transportation

Parapat shoreline

Ferries in harbour

Leaving Parapat harbour

Tabo Cottages

I chose Tabo Cottages for a couple reasons. I initially read about the location in a travel blog which highly rated this destination along with Zoe's Paradise Hotel. I liked the Cottages' location and range of services. The deciding factor was the cottage setup that Tabo Cottages offered versus the standard hotel room experience that I thought Zoe's offered.

I'm so happy with the choice I made. The four night stay was exactly the experience I look for. The staff were always warm and friendly, open to helping me learn Batak (the local language), and left me feeling part of the family.

The service, food and overall experience was consistently amazing for my four night stay. I originally planned to stay three nights, then changed my mind to stay four nights to avoid staying an extra night in Jakarta. Best decision ever! Saturday, my last full day, was when everything from my visit seemed to come together with the Batak dancing, buffet dinner along with spending more time with Anna, Fanni and Ronald (more details below).

Looking out from Cottages' jetty

Zoe's Paradise - next door

Cottage main dining area

My room was lower right

Lake view rooms

Dining area

Hideaway area on lake

View from lake

View from dining area

Saying goodbye

Haircut Experience

Every so often I need to have my ever disappearing hair trimmed. Leo's barbershop was one of two shops that appeared in a Google search that were easy walking distance from the hotel. My choice of Leo's location was reinforced by the hotel's reception staff - and for good reason. As I learned when I arrived at the shop, Kumala who works at the hotel, is Leo's partner. In fact, the reception staff had contacted Kumala, who was on days off, to alert her to my impending arrival.

Leo did a masterful job cutting my hair, all under Kumala's watchful eye. I also enjoyed a shoulder rub after the cut. The Google Review I posted attested to my extraordinary experience. I also purchased a new baseball cap and left my USA Women's Hockey team baseball cap with Leo and Kumala.

Leo, my barber

Leo

Kumala - keeping a close eye on Leo's work

Barber shop

The Bay

A couple photos from the road that rises up the hill going into TukTuk. Tabo Cottages is to the right.

Learning Bahasa and Batak Tabo

I continued to be blessed with meeting extraordinary people in my journey. I met Fanni, Sophia, Anna, Kie and Ronald through an interesting set of circumstances. I first met Fanni, Sophia, Anna and Kie in a shelter on the Tabo Cottages's grounds as the group of them was conducting an informal Bahasa language session. The group graciously accepted me as I intruded in their lesson. Fanni is the owner's daughter-in-law (married to Ronald who I met later in the stay). Fanni is working at the hotel so learning Bahasa is important. Sophia is from Switzerland and is the best dressed and groomed person I've met recently. Anna is from Germany, an extraordinary bartender, who is helping the hotel establish a bar. Anna sort of disappeared from the original language session and reappeared the next day's lesson. Kie who was providing the language expertise. Kie, who has a Canadian mother/Indonesian father, grew up in Lethbridge, Alberta - my home Canadian province. He has a bachelor's degree from Queen's University in Kingston, Ontario, Canada. I hope I've accurately captured what I heard through our multiple conversations.

I met Ronald, the owner's son, separately as he was in Jakarta when I arrived arranging for a visa and attending a coffee roasters training session. Ronald is setting up a coffee roasting business on the island with a business partner. Tabo Cottages has a small coffee roasting machine at the hotel to supply guests looking for Sumatra coffee.

Batak Tabo is the local language that is spoken, in addition to Bahasa. I was fortunate to find a translation app that included Batak when I learned the language was missing from Google Translate. The staff were so kind and supportive. My new BFFs, Seven and Omna, were particularly supportive. Seven, is a 21 year old man, who was named Seven because he was born on September 7. Anggi and Kumala in reception were also in on my language team. Jack, the chef, has his contribution as well. Alfon and Annetta pitched in when I needed help. I was surrounded by kindness and warm hospitality!

I was kindly invited by Fanni to participate in a second lesson where I took the photos below and expanded by Bahasa/Batak language skills.

I found a translation app
that has Batak Tabo

Batak Dancing

Every Saturday afternoon at 5 pm, Tabo Cottages coordinated with the local school for students to demonstrate traditional Batak dancing (women) and music (men and women) on the hotel grounds. The demonstration included one dance where three guests were invited to join in. The universe was benevolent with me as I was able to participate as the first person near me declined the invitation to dance. Sometimes the stars align!

The universe's benevolence continued through my new friend Anna. She captured the video clips that I'm sharing below.

The bags contain rice that was sprinkled during
the dancing

Dave,Wolfgang and the Batak dancing team
Pose 1

Dave, Wolfgang and the Batak dancing team
Pose 2

Saturday Night Dinner and Live Music

Every Saturday night Tabo Cottages hosts a buffet dinner accompanied with live music. The kitchen staff served the most incredible buffet for a cost of 180,000 IDR (~ $16 CDN/$11 USD).

The band played one of my many favourite songs - Wish You Were Here. Wonderful guitar along with what I find are 'haunting' lyrics.

Singer with baseball cap was a previous winner of
Indonesia's version of Indonesia Has Talent

Buffet dinner (Omna in photo)

Anna's special drink for me with
dragon fruit, yoghurt, tonic water and
much more

Keeping In Touch

Heartfelt thanks to everyone who stays in touch while I'm on this adventure. Your thoughtfulness and what you share is so important in my overall experience. I lack the words to capture the feeling of universality that I experience through what you share with me - part of a global community.

I've inserted a few examples from the texts I've received in the last few months. I am blessed to also have regular video calls with my good friend Mike and monthly video calls with friends I've made through working at TJX Canada.

To all my friends - your friendship and continuing presence is a most special gift I am most grateful for.

Thanks Sajee

Thanks Barrie & Elizabeth

Thanks Sam!
Fitt's Village is where I met my good
friend Sam (his village) when I worked from my
rented beach house in Barbados.
Sam's family figure prominently in this
book that was recently published.

Travel Administration

I am unsure if it's just me, I've learned that I have a superior online booking experience through my laptop vs using my phone for the same transaction. There seems to be more options and more information to review when I am working on my laptop - independent of using the vendor's mobile application. As with most things in life, there are notable exceptions like using taxi apps like Uber or Grab (SE Asia version). It seems like some companies struggle with providing a good phone experience when accessing their website.

Next Week

I'm on my way to Jakarta on Sunday afternoon for a couple nights. Since I only have one complete day (Monday) for exploring Jakarta, I decided to stay at the airport and take the train into the city. I fly to Colombo, Sri Lanka's capital, on Tuesday afternoon with plans to spend the next seven nights in Sri Lanka. My itinerary includes traveling to Kandy (visit Buddha's tooth relic), Dambulla (elephant safari) and returning to Colombo to visit with Lakshika and her family on Saturday. Lakshika is my friend Sajee's sister who I met with in my first visit to Sri Lanka two years ago. Lakshika was a life saver as she was agreeable to receive packages that I needed couriered to me while traveling. My Dambulla visit is also special as I'm staying at the same hotel I used two years ago. I know one staff member who I've stayed in touch with still works at the hotel.

Look forward to catching up with you next week!

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David's Great Adventure - 2024/25