Much belated greetings! Thanks for your patience and understanding! I hope your week has had moments of magic and special moments which you are grateful for.
I've been battling with a cold that has sapped my writing enthusiasm for a few days. I was blessed to have the energy to continue visiting the different destinations I had planned for. I've also noticed many more people around me also suffering from colds.
The weather has continued to be favourable during my travels. There are warm and sunny skies in many places that suffer from days of rain and gloominess. The temperature continues in the range of the low 20's/low 70s for daytime highs. The underlying benefit of these temperatures is a comfortable hotel room as most hotels lack A/C. I wonder how long before they need to consider changing their ways and install A/C. I've been in so many places now where the weather is upside down as compared to historical trends!
As much as I enjoying Scandinavia, I am missing the SE Asia vibe, the transportation efficiency and service mentality. Just saying!
I'm also at an interesting crossroads in my travels. I'm unsure if I should stop writing my weekly blog as, unlike most other people who travel, I am without a home to go to. First world problem, indeed!
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Breathtaking beauty in western Norway!
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May the universe bring endless blessings (blessings in disguise) and moments of magic 🦄 to you and your loved ones in the week ahead. 🙏
Travel update: The where to visit in Ireland pendulum has swung back to Galway. I have two nights booked in the city; just need to figure out where I should sleep on Saturday night, September 6. I'll be staying at the Waterside Inn in Mississauga when I return to Toronto on the evening of Saturday, September 7. The trip to Dave's cottage is dependent on the weather forecast. We need three consecutive days of dry weather to complete the reshingling!
Travel Administration
Welcome to cashless countries! Finding an ATM in Finland, Norway or Sweden is a completely different experience on this adventure. More details below!
Travel Maps
My week started in Stavanger. I was in Olso for two nights after an eight hour bus trip from Stavanger. My week ended in Sundsvall, Sweden, a small city 3.5 hours north of Stockholm after 11 hours and two connections. I took a bus from Oslo to Orebro, Sweden; transferred to a Swedish Rail regional train bound for Stockholm; in Stockholm I transferred to Sweden's version of a high speed train to reach Sundsvall.
Sweden: August 20 to August 27, 2025
My primary focus on the full day in Stavanger was taking the much promoted fjord cruise which I booked for 3 pm. Loads of time to explore touristy sites in the meantime.
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| A small oasis - across from hotel |
What an unexpected delight! Yes, I trumped my museum aversion for this visit. The two staff members I met were so welcoming and brimming ovev with information they wanted to share. My big historical takeaway was the extent to which the Norwegians set to sea (imagine boats without sails) and interacted with the Roman Empire. The museum historian lamented about how much focus was placed on the Vikings part of Norwegian history. I'm most appreciative of the time he spent with me to share his knowledge and historical insights. Definitely a place you should visit.
The woman at reception was equally engaging! So engaging, I had to find a polite way to say goodbye and be on my way. She shared historical information about the building that housed the museum, what part of Norway she was from (so far north) and the logistical challenges to reach her community. A true gift to find people who are so passionate about their work coupled with a desire to share!
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| Museum entrance |
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| Runes |
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| Runes abound |
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| Religous artefacts |
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| Sun worship |
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| Vikings to your heart's content |
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| Small boy skeleton |
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| Roman artefacts brought to Norway |
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| An ode to the marsh |
'Stavanger Cathedral is the only cathedral from the Middle Age that has kept its original architecture, and the only Norwegian cathedral in continuous use since the 1300s.'
The photos below reflect the extensive renovations in the Cathedral over the past several years. Quite an impressive church, as far as churches go.
Enjoy the religious experience! My big attraction to any religious building is the expected solitude along with my belief that I can connect with my parent's spirits more readily.
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| Entrance - admission fee required |
If you plan to go on multiple fjord cruises in Norway, I suggest you go on this cruise first. Unfortunately, this cruise was underwhelming in comparison to my Flam cruise experience. These fjords are much wider along with less towering and imposing mountains. A pleasant afternoon, with a few highlights, however it felt more like a lake cruise.
The better idea, perhaps, is to hike to
Preikestolen (The Pulpit Rock). The Rock, which was formed more than 10.000 years ago, is the most iconic natural landmark in Norway. From the top of the 604 metres (1982 ft) high cliff, you will find the most dramatic views that Fjord Norway has to offer. The photos on the website I've linked to will give you a better idea of why the hike is a good option. For your Mission Impossible fans, Tom Cruise filmed at this location for Mission Impossible 6.
I met Jose from Houston who just moved to Stavanger a week previous to start a new job in the oil industry. His grandmother and father had traveled with him with plans to spend a month helping him to adjust to his new life. He mentioned the weather would be different from Houston. Apparently, the coldest winter temperatures are around 0 C/(32F). God bless him in his new life!
Then there was the couple from Malaga, Spain who had driven to Stavanger with plans to continue to Bergen. He (forgot to ask his name) was originally from Mumbai. He was also very well versed in Canadian politics - better than me! He is the 2nd person I've met who think Mark Carney, the Canadian prime minister, will set Canada on a good path, given his achievements at the Bank of England. Let's all pray that these two people are somewhat accurate.
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| Fjords in the distance |
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| Interesting way to dock your boat |
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Supposed to be a cave in these cliffs where
'vagabonds' were able to evade the law by
throwing rocks on their pursuers! |
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| Waterfall up close - feel the spray? |
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| Old Town - Stavanger |
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| Our cruise boat |
Oslo
Enough with nature - let's get to Oslo's bright lights and city vibe.
Bus Trip
It's an eight hour bus trip to Oslo. The first four hours were the most scenic with beautiful lakes with 'mountains' always present. This part of the world has both cycling and hiking trails to help explore the natural surroundings. The final four hours were much less engaging. The landscape flattened out introducing more fields and rolling countryside.
I met a couple on the bus who were from Nessa, Norway which is a short distance from Stavanger. Their community is close to Pulpit Rock so they witness the impact of a steady stream of tourists. I learned they had five adult children who each had two children. The husband also shared they had had a sixth child, however she died in a mountain climbing accident when she was in her mid-twenties. Interesting what information people will entrust you with. What I've learned along the way helps to keep perspective on life.
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| Love those reflections! |
Oslo - City Visit
My two nights in Oslo were underwhelming! I'm increasingly jaded about big cities, irrespective of where they are in the world. My cautionary note is you should investigate what the city has to offer so you can formulate your own opinion. There are a number of tourist sites to visit including a sculpture park, Nobel Peace Museum, churches, and so much more.
My visit highlight was walking to and walking on the
Norwegian National Opera and Ballet building. Oslo's most popular tourist site is designed to represent an iceberg rising from the sea. The location was selected as part of the waterfront revitalization strategy.
I found the city needed a good scrubbing. It's also another city that I thought lacked a vibe I cound connect with. Everything worked well, just was unpleasant, at times, to be walking about.
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| Plaza and fountain across from Opera House |
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| Opera House; waterside saunas in left foreground |
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| Sculpture in the harbour |
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| City view from Opera House |
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| From Opera House roof |
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| Opera House interior |
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A day in the park enjoying the warm sunny
weather |
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On my way to the bus terminal - I'll
be at my Swedish destination in twelve hours |
Sweden
Sweden has quickly become my favourite Scandinavian country, to date. This country has an amazing vibe that I immediately connected with.
Bus/Train Trip
My journey to Sundsvall, Sweden (3.5 hours north of Stockholm) involved an seven hour bus trip plus five hours between two trains (Orebro to Stockholm/Stockholm to Sundsvall). I had the most engaging and interesting companion on the bus trip. Charlotte, who is a 60's something child psychologist in Orebro, was a climate activist. She was returning from a climate action in Bergen that involved blockading roads to the local refinery and trying to interfere with ships bringing oil to the refinery. She's been involved in climate action since 2017. Lotte spends a week of her vacation each year pursuing this interest. She also refuses to fly given their environmental impact. Pause for me to think about my recent travels, for sure. Her and her brother are caregivers for her mother who lives on the south coast of Sweden, near Copenhagen. She shared some amazing photos of the sea she took from her mom's seaside home. Such a rich and interesting conversation. What an incredible gift. Thank goodness for her English language skills!
The two train rides were non-eventful. The Stockholm to Sundsvall leg was on in a first class seat on Sweden's version of a high speed train. Help yourself to the 'free' coffee, bottled water, fresh fruit and candy. Japan has spoiled me in my train riding expectations!
Lesson learned: I booked my trip through Swedish Rail (SJ) which means SJ creates a 'fake' bus number to identify the bus (operated by a different company) in your reservation. I learned this little tidbit of info through the bus help desk at the terminal. The trick is to find the bus on the schedule board that has the same departure as your ticket and is on the way to your destination. In my instance, the bus I boarded was headed to Stockholm with a stop in Orebro where I was to disembark.
Sundsvall
What a beautiful and clean city! My immediate reaction was a comparison to Prague which ranks first in my mind as the penultimate European city to visit. I'm convinced early that I'll enjoy the next three days. I had chosen this destination after reading a travel blog that identified 15 Swedish destinations to visit. The appeal was the city was on the water, smaller and had easy access to nature.
There is a story behind my meatball meal. As I was reading the hotel restaurant's menu I noticed the absence of meatballs. This is when Mihaela stepped in, along with her boss, to suggest they would speak with the chef to see what was possible. Voila - my meatballs with mashed potatoes was delivered to my table with love and attention. Mihaela poured my water into a wine glass to add elegance to my dining experience.
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| Swedish meatballs - my culinary visit is complete |
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Maple leaf and Toronto in one sign. A taste of Canada.
Sadly, the employee I spoke with had zero idea about
Toronto or Canada. |
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| Sundsvall Station |
City
I'm sharing a few photos from the city's old section, near to my hotel. There were wide, clean streets that were almost traffic free. There are also streets where traffic has been blocked for pedestrian walkways. Such good energy!
Surprisingly, the city has closed its tourist information facilities. My hotel reception suggested checking in at the city library/museum to find tourist info. I found Agneta who was responsible for the museum. She took the time to identify the key tourist brochures I needed plus shared a few tips about local sights. I also learned about her two daughters (6 & 8 years at time of adoption) who she had adopted during a trip to China. Her oldest daughter (now 18) was off to travel in Japan this fall. Agneta had plans to travel to Lisbon this fall, her second trip on her own over the past two years. She also told me about the best bakeries in the city. The cinnamon bun and coffee I had was at her favourite bakery. I returned to the museum later in the morning to deliver a fresh croissant to Agneta - her favourite treat at the bakery.
I also met a local skier, Oscar, while sitting on a bench by the fountain (see photo below). The meeting had its roots in Oscar asking me to look after his expensive looking cross-country bike while he went to drugstore. Upon his return, we struck up a conversation about his skiing, his training regimen, academic achievements, aspirations (ski Lake Louise was one), where he was working and how he was addressing a skiing injury he had sustained earlier this year. Certainly was a fascinating half hour conversation - all because I was sitting on a bench at the right time. I'm perpetually in awe with all the people I seem to have conversations with. I should note that the frequency of conversations has increased since I returned to countries where English is more widely spoken.
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| I have to learn to hold my camera level! |
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| Local cathedral |
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| Fountain in city centre |
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Cinnamon bun and coffee - Simply Divine!
Ths Agneta for the recommendation! |
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| Esplande |
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| Busy, right?! |
Agneta's first recommendation was hiking to the North Mountain for a panoramic view of Sundsvall. There were good hiking paths to enjoy the natural elements. Agneta mentioned there was a stairway leading to the summit. I discovered the stairway as I was descending. I think I had the more interesting ascent anyways! Wink, wink...
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| Nature reserve with hiking/cycling paths |
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| City and harbour views |
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| City and harbour views |
Fellow hotel guests I spoke with suggested visiting the South Mountain for even better panoramic views that the North Mountain given its higher elevation. Great suggestion! Great hike with amazing views at the summit.
I managed to work up a sweat hiking up to the summit. I decided to seek refuge in the
Hotel Södra Berget to warm up (very cool wind) and change my T-shirt before starting the return trip.
The universe had two gifts in mind for me as I entered the hotel. When I asked if I could sit in the lobby to warm up, the woman at the hotel reception advised she could do one much better. Why don't I sit in the restaurant and enjoy the same view I had outside. Sounded great to me. As I was walking to a table by the window, Patrick David, the hotel's executive chef, called out to me so I detoured to where he was sitting. What a fascinating man! A Limerick Ireland native, Patrick had just returned from Durban, South Africa the previous day. He had visited the bakery he established with the locals as well as visiting the school he had also established. He shared photos of the school, students and teachers. He was planning to return to Johannesburg, South Africa to look for opportunities to repeat his benevolence. Patrick had been involved with New York City soup kitchens as well as feeding refugees on the Israeili/Jordan border. Man on a mission to help his fellow man. His message to me after hearing about my adventures - just keep on doing what I'm doing!
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| Ski Jump |
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Alnön Island in the distance; Gulf of Bothnia is on
the either side of the island. Finland is further east. |
Chocolate Shop
You know you are in a great community when there is a chocolate shop that makes it own chocolate. The only disappointment is the chocolate fails the 'bean to bar' test; the owner makes her chocolate from chocolate that she purchases. She did say she made the chocolate, with loads of love, in the lower part of the store. I bought my share of dark chocolate in support of her business!
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| Oh look - heaven on earth |
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| Simply delightful! |
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| So much to choose from! |
I stopped by the church after my North Mountain hike to see what was inside this enormous church. My lucky day! I graciously accepted the coffee I was offered while walking about the church. The church's ward also offered to provide me with a short church history. What a story! The church had to be rebuilt in 1893 after a fire ravaged the entire city. The city has Stone City as its nickname as most structures were built from stone after the devastating fire. Ironically, the funding to build this stone church came from the timber companies working in the area at the time of the fire. The church's architect was the 24 year old son of a Stockholm based architecture firm. What a magnificent creation for this young architect. The construction took three years.
On the 100th anniversary of the church, someone started a fire inside the church to mark the anniversary. Fortunately, the fire was caught in time to save the church, however the interior had to be repainted from the smoke damage. The other tidbit of history was the theft of a new age painting that was hung near the front of the church. The criminal(s) are still at large. The artist painted a second version of the painting which is currently hanging in the church.
And that is how what was intended to be a quiet visit became a more enriching experience. The universe works in mysterious and beautiful ways!
Stockholm
I LOVE Stockholm. The city has the coolest vibe, interesting architecture, relatively clean, easy to walk about. Great energy from the time I arrived on Saturday afternoon. I found Stockholm so much more interesting than Helsinki and Oslo.
Visting Stockholm had a little texture and colour that I originally intended. I discovered a few days before my scheduled visit to Stockholm that I had booked a hotel is Oslo. That was not good. Trying to find a hotel for a reasonable price, at the last moment, became a herculean task. Pretty dramatic - right?!
My two night stay soon became a one night stay with the idea that I could always take the train to Stockholm from my next destination, Gothenburg, if I needed to. A suboptimal solution, however a more affordable option. I discovered, after the fact, the city was hosting an Ed Sheeran concert on the same weekend I was visiting plus a number of other social events. Bad, bad timing.
My hotel for the one night was
Mälardrottningen Hotel Ship which was the only location with a 'reasonable' price given the circumstances. I continue to puzzle over the high ratings given to this hotel. The biggest plus was location as I could readily walk to all the places you see in the photos below. I was also one subway stop away from the train station. The key highlights I'd like to see if I return to Stockholm is the gardens in the Djurgårdsbrunn area and take a cruise to see Stockholm from the water.
Stockholm is built across 14 islands so a cruise would provide great perspective.
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| Statue of Gustav Vasas |
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| Old Town - Gamla Stan |
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| Interesting lane |
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| Another interesting lane |
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| Old Town - Gamla Stan |
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| Another interesting passageway |
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| Interesting passageway to explore |
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| Royal Palace |
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| Royal Palace |
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Grabby soldier - he sternly warned to
back up as I approached him to ask
permission to take his photo. Guess I
unintentionally crossed an imaginary line. |
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| Gustav III's Obelisk |
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| Entrance to a modern shopping mecca |
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| More beautiful buildings |
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| Kyrkogard Church |
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| Wrapping up a memorial |
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| Non-stop places to explore |
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| Kungsträdgården |
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| Kungliga slottet - The Royal Palace |
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| Riksdagshuset - Parliament House |
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| Riddarholmen Church |
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| More interesting architecture |
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| City Hall |
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| Atop City Hall |
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| Solbåten av Christian Berg sculpture |
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| My hotel - thank goodness for calm seas! |
Administration
I discovered, belatedly, that in Finland the banks got together (conspired?) to organize a single ATM alternative to withdraw cash. The Finnish banks and government are successfully moving the country to be entirely cashless. Norway is almost a carbon copy of the Finland example, with the exception of one financial organization that offers limited ATM service beyond the bank's single ATM network. Sweden appears to moving along the same path, albeit I noticed more ATMs than in Norway and Finland combined. I've decided to be cashless in Sweden to understand my behaviour change. And it's expensive to withdraw cash - in the $10 CDN/transaction range.
Next Week
I leave Stockholm on Sunday for three nights in Gothenburg, Sweden. I take the ferry from Gothenburg to Frederikshavn, Denmark for my first two nights in Denmark. Aarhus is my final destination for the week. Tik tok - time is fleeting....
I'd be delighted and honoured to 'see you' next week! Stay happy and healthy!
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