Annyeonghaseyo. Eotteohge jinaeseyo? Hello. How are you? Hwan-yeonghabnida! Welcome back! 😀
Busy week of traveling for my last full week in SK. I managed to travel the full length of the country from south (Jeju Island) to north (Chuncheon).
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My experience of South Korea is a study in contradictions when it comes to the people and service industry. Older people and buses were always interesting. In some places, you had to watch out as they cut in front of everyone to get on the bus. At the same time, they could be the most courteous people when it comes to making sure I got a seat as they were getting off the bus. Senior citizens may be offered a seat, maybe not. The cities could be clean or they needed more attention in basic care. The hotel service standards varied across the country. For example, the SK government had banned the use of single use amenities in the country, similar to Taiwan and Japan. It appeared each hotel implemented this restriction differently, unlike Taiwan and Japan where the hotels always ensured you had easy access. Some hotels still provided them, some hotels had supplies at the reception, some hotels sold the amenities and some hotels had none. While every hotel provided a kettle for boiling water, it was a mixed bag as far as being provided with coffee, tea or a cup to drink from. Nothing close to life threatening, just seemed everyone was doing their own thing throughout the country. As obtuse as this may sound, I was missing a country vibe I typically experienced in the other countries I visited. The country and I failed to click, if that makes any sense. Go figure. Truly a first world challenge, right?!
The heatwave continued throughout the week with hot temps (mid-30's) and high humidity. We had ideal conditions for the baseball game in Daejeon.
Travel Update: I've booked a flight from Copenhagen to Dublin for September 4. I plan to spend three nights in Galway (yes, I've succumbed to my heart's desire to return to Galway for a third time). I plan to fly to Toronto from Dublin on Sunday, September 7 via Reykjavik, Iceland.
May the universe bring endless blessings (blessings in disguise) and moments of magic 🦄 to you and your loved ones in the week ahead. 🙏
Travel Administration
I discovered a website that may help you if you are planning to hike or climb mountains during your travels. The site provides detailed weather reports at various elevations for mountains around the world. As a Canadian who has spent time in the Canadian Rocky Mountains, I need to remind myself that 'mountains' come in various heights.😉 More details below.
Travel Maps
My week's travel was focused on moving northward on SK's western side. After being blessed with a smooth ferry ride to Wando, along with a couple bus rides, I arrived in Jeonju. From Jeonju, I took a bus to Daejeon to witness my first SK professional baseball game. My plan to walk on the Red Clay trail just outside Daejeon was replaced with visiting a famous local bakery. My next destination was Chuncheon for a couple nights, a city nestled in the mountainous terrain surrounding the city. I arrived, by bus, in my final SK destination of Suwon.
South Korea: July 4 to August 5. 2025
Jeju Island
Sunday was my day to tackle hiking to the summit of Mount Hallasan, SK's highest mountain (1950m/6400 ft). Hallasan Mountain is one of Korea’s 3 spirit mountains. It's a 9.6 km (6 mi) hike one way that takes about 4.5 - 5 hours (one way) with a 1200m rise in elevation. I hesitated after checking the mountain weather reports and the
webcams stationed at four different elevations on the mountain. The summit was completely covered by clouds with the wind whipping about. There was rain at the lower elevations. A tropical depression passing through the Yellow Sea was producing the inclement weather in the midst of the country wide heatwave. Just my luck!
I decided to make an attempt with the idea I'd stop when I reached the section where the rain was falling. One small hurdle before I started hiking. I mistakenly thought I had completed the mandatory reservation to hike the trail. With the kind and patient assistance of the gate attendant, I made my reservation and was on my way.
The rain stayed away. The overcast skies and cooler temperatures were a blessing for the hike. I hiked as far as the Jindallaebat Shelter (7.3 km/4.6 mi) before I was forced to stop because the remaining trail to the summit was now closed due to worsening weather conditions. I reached the shelter around 11:30 am (about 3 hours of hiking), which was within the 12:30 pm time restriction to start hiking the final 2.3 km/1.4 mi to the summit. Nothing ventured, nothing gained.
Along the way, I had a number of different brief conversations. I met a guy from New York at the shelter who had just returned from the summit. His wife, who was from SK, decided to go surfing instead of hiking with her husband. I met a couple visiting from Taichung, Taiwan who had recently driven from Seattle, Washington, through the Rocky Mountains, to Jasper. Alberta. They now share my idea of what a mountain can be. They were surprised to learn I had visited Taichung when they suggested I visit Taiwan. There was a couple and their two teenage children who I met. This was their third (and successful) attempt to reach the summit. Finally, there was a woman and her daughter who I enjoyed a short break with. I enjoyed several slices of cucumber courtesy of my new acquaintances.
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| View from bus stop |
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| Park office up clost |
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| Where it all starts |
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| Trail entrance |
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Small sections of trail have this
matting |
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Early part of trail - to entice you
to go further |
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Many parts of hike is lava rocks
like this |
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| Signs to keep you informed on your progress |
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| Jindallaebat Shelter |
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| Jindallaebat Shelter directions |
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| Jindallaebat Shelter |
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| More info on climb to summit |
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| Summit trail closed |
Jeonju is known for its downtown Hanok village with about 800 buildings. The term “hanok” refers to traditional Korean homes, which are often lovely.
Lonely Planet included Jeonju in its “Best Attractions in Asia” list in 2016, which is still proudly displayed on the city’s tourist map.
Hanok Village
I've been immersed in Hanok Villages during my SK travels. This village is similarly commercialized to the other hanok villages I've visited. The Andong village stands out as the most 'authentic' experience so far.
Jeondong Catholic Church
One of the largest and most beautiful churches in SK. I spend time inside churches, particularly Catholic churches, as my parents were devout Catholics. A church is a special environment where I believe I can connect with their spirits - may they continue to rest in peace. Sadly, I had to decline the kind offer from a nun to join the 11 am daily mass as I had a bus to catch. The god that occupies this church is camera shy so I was unable to take photos inside the church.
Jaman Mural Village
There is a trend in SE Asian communities to either turn a rundown neighbourhood into a tourist destination by painting the buildings a common colour (blue is a good choice) and/or paint murals on walls to draw tourists. Fortunately, this village was near the hanok village so my disappointment with what I saw was tempered. What the creators of these tourist sites seem to forget is that you also need to maintain the murals as time and weather take their tolls.
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| I thought this was a great mural |
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| Artist |
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| No comment on the rest of murals |
Omokdae & Imokdae
'Omokdae and Imokdae are places where Taejo, the founder of the Joseon Dynasty, held a banquet after victory against the Japanese Invasion of 1380. The two places are very close to the main streets of Jeonju Hanok Village. The view from the Imokdae Pavilion overlooks Jeonju Hanok Village.'
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| Jeonju vista |
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| Jeonju |
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| Hanok Village |
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| Hanok Village |
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| Hanok Village |
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| Hanok Village |
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| Hanok Village |
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| Looking up to viewpoint |
Nambu Market
Always need to visit a market to see what is for sale, says the tourist who avoids making any purchases. 😀 Quiet morning at the market. Pretty much get everything you may need.
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| Main entrance |
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Secondary market - across the river from
main market |
For you SK history buffs, this shrine would be a must-see destination. This Shrine was erected in the early years of the 15th century, shortly after King Taejo’s death, establishing the Joseon dynasty. For the same reason, several shrines had previously been erected in the country. They were all destroyed by the Japanese and subsequently rebuilt. The small gift on the day I visited was the admission was free. Small blessing as I had been too late the previous evening to visit the shrine
I improved my understanding of Korea's rich history by taking the time to visit this shrine. Great information in the Portrait Hall, that I took time to read for a change, that established context for the Joseon dynasty.
Shrine
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| Gate |
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| Closer look at craftmanship |
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| Approaching portrait |
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| King Taejo's portrait |
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| Looking back to gate |
Documentation Room
There was a small elevated building that housed this information about the meticulous records kept by the dynasty. The royalty had the foresight to keep the multiple copies in different locations to prevent their complete destruction by the Japanese who seem to be constantly invading Korea.
Royal Portrait Hall
This is where I took the time to read more than I usually do when visiting a museum. So much history found throughout Korea with significant work invested to recreate historical buildings destroyed over the centuries.
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| Who gets to ride in which carrier |
Daejeon
My initial reasons for visiting Daejeon were to hike on the
red clay hiking trail (touted to have therapeutic qualities) and attend my first SK professional baseball game. The hiking was dropped from the schedule after my tourist information centre visit given its distance from my location and its operating hours. The hike was replaced with a bakery visit. A good compromise I thought.
I was blessed with incredible kindness and thoughtfulness during my Daejeon visit. The two women working at the bus terminal's tourist information centre treated me like a long lost friend. One woman had recently visited the Toronto area where I'm from so she shared stories about her wonderful Canadian experience including her trip to Niagara Falls. Her colleague was equally kind. I was soon on my way with a city map, brochure and souvenir pen.
The universe also manifested its goodness through a young couple I met in my hotel lobby as I was trying to get instructions, with Google Translate, to a local supermarket. The couple offered their assistance in my shopping quest. In our conversation, the couple shared they in Daejeon to attend the same baseball game I was going to. They also mentioned that my idea of buying a ticket at the park may be an issue. The local team's popularity (Hanwha Eagles) and their recent success (top team in league) meant tickets were scarce. In fact, they were unable to find tickets online through the team's website. No problem. My new friends offered to buy a ticket for me through an online service they had used to purchase their tickets. In a matter of minutes I had my ticket on the third baseball, three rows up from the field, near the opposing team's dugout.
What made their help additionally special was the young man had a mission in mind where he could help a foreigner, like me, who is visiting his country. They 'jumped' at the opportunity when they saw the language challenge I was having with the hotel staff member. I'm so grateful for this gift! 🙏
There was a bit of drama at the stadium when I learned that the ticket screen capture wasn't going to work. This is where the universe stepped in again with the kindness of the woman working at the ticket window. She came outside to speak with me (through Google Translate) about the issue. She suggested that I have my new friends talk with her so she could explain the issue and what needed to be done. She waited outside her window until I had my new friends on the phone (thank you Kakao Talk). In the meantime, the young ticket agent advised people coming to her window that she would be with them shortly (my interpretation). The solution was to accompany my friends into the stadium as they had the ticket that would let me in. My new friends met me at the gate, escorted me to my seat, gave me a bottle of water, and I was set to watch experience the baseball game.
There is non-stop singing and noise making throughout the game. You can readily see where the Taiwanese replicated what the SK teams were doing to involve fans. What made this game special was both teams had their respective cheerleaders and team chants happening throughout the game. My new friends were Samsung Lions fans, the visiting team for this game. Baseball in SE Asia is a completely different fan experience from North America!
BTW - this is a brand new stadium just opened in March this year! The home team won the game 6 - 0. The home team won at the three baseball games I attended in Taiwan, Japan and SK. I must have brought them good luck! 😉
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| Hanwha Life Ball Park |
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| Where I waited for my friends |
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| View of 3rd baseball line from my seat |
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My new friends were sitting in the section to my
left, one row up |
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| Ant there's the pitch |
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| Home team fans |
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| Home run |
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| Sample of food available at stadium |
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| Special sweets |
My new friends advised me that Daejeon is known to them as a 'boring' city. The biggest highlight, besides the recent Hanwha Eagles baseball success, is the Sung Sim Dang Bakery. Daejeon is known as 'Bread' city given the bakery's success. Mison, my new friend, identified the bakery location on my Naver app to help me find the bakery independently. A short 20 minute bus trip would bring near to heaven on earth. I was also advised to stay away on weekends because it was so busy. As you can see from the photos below Thursdays seem to be busy as well. Staying away on weekends would be important advice to follow!
The name of the place translates into a ‘place of sacred/holy hearts’ because the bakery started as a place that wanted to spread Catholicism through its bread. The small chain has been hailed as one of the best in the nation.
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| Entrance where the line starts |
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| Around the corner, down the lane on left |
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| Into a parking garage |
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| Continues behind me in the garage |
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| Waiting to cross the lane to rejoin line |
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| Inside bakery |
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| Street is blocked to vehicular traffic |
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| My single purchase after 20 minute wait |
Chuncheon
This city is a favourite vacation destination for the people of Seoul. It's nestled in a 'mountainous' region with rivers, lakes and lots of additional tourist attractions including Legoland amusement park. The helpful tourist information centre person armed with her advice and a city map marked up with suggested destinations. She suggested I take a ride on the cable car that afternoon as the views from the summit were amazing. She had good advice! BTW - this is SK's longest cable car system spanning 3.61 km (2.24 mi). I always have a small prayer when I get in a cable car regarding the engineers who designed the cable car, the people who built the cable car and the maintenance team responsible for the cable car's ongoing safety. My life is in their hands during the ride.
Thank goodness for the bus that serviced the cable car terminal on regular schedule. Special thanks to the ticket agent who suggested waiting until 6 pm (I arrived at 5:45 pm) to buy my ticket as it was half price from 6 pm to the 7 pm closing time.
Amazing views from the top! The added bonus was the walkway behind the upper terminal that offered views from a higher elevation. The South Koreans sure have a knack for building steps, stairs and walkways across their country. Thank you from an appreciative tourist!
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| On the way up |
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| Incredible lighting and colours |
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Skywalk at end of walkway behind cable car
upper terminal |
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| Looking thru skywalk's grass floor |
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| Skywalk |
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| Walkway leading to skywalk |
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| What you are seeing in the distance |
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| On my way down |
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| Dusk is on its way |
In my quest to enjoy the outdoors I ended up traveling to Nami Island. A most interesting tourist destination. There were beautiful, albeit short, walks through tree lined walkways. Lots of places to eat and buy stuff. I imagine this was an interesting refuge for city people. Had a well orchestrated nature theme along with lots of tourist type entertainment around the area where you boarded the ferry to get to the island.
'Nami Island is a beautiful island that is among the most popular attractions in South Korea.
The island features beautiful tree lanes, woodlands, riverside walks, and many more! It is the perfect place for nature lovers, which offers picture-perfect scenery all year round.'
In my attempt to confirm I was standing in the right line to board the ferry to the island, I met a group of university students visiting from China. I had most contact with James who I learned had taught English in China for two years before returning to university for his masters in international affairs. My 26 year old friend had adopted James as his English name based on the Sherlock Holmes criminal mastermind character - James Moriaty. We intersected a few times throughout the time I was on island. We also shared the same return ferry. He also shared he and his girlfriend had recently broken up (she instigated) which led to him talking about the social pressure to get married (need to have a job, house and car to get married) plus the money his family would need to pay to his future wife's family. An unexpected cultural education. James and his university colleagues wanted a photo with me which James said he would email to me (waiting for email).
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| Yes, the island appears to be its own republic |
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A popular SK series is filmed on
the island |
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| Island's version of a waterfall |
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My newest friend. My lunch attracted
the peacock's attention. |
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The Korean general who lends his name to the
island |
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| General's tomb |
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| All about the general - I think |
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| Even more to read |
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| Island entrance/exit view from ferry |
Seeing this memorial on the tourist map triggered an unexpected flood of memories from
my two month volunteer experience in Assosa, Ethiopia near the Sudan border in northwestern Ethiopia. My tourist info also mentioned there was an Ethiopian Bet (cafe) near the memorial that served Ethiopian coffee. Wow! That was an immediate attention getter as well. I had drank some of the best coffee in my life while I was living in Assosa. The steaming hot and super strong coffee is served in small demi-tasse cups filled to the brim that burns your fingers when hold the cup. Best coffee experience ever!
I had to settle for coffee served in a glass coffee mug as this is what the bet used. I had asked if they used the smaller cups that they had on display in the bet. The first cup they served was so disappointing it was crushing my walk down memory lane; weak and watery. Yes, I politely complained. I received a second cup that was much better, sending caffeine shooting through my blood vessels. Great rush!
Ethiopia sent 6,000 soldiers to fight in the Korean War who played a role in the northeast front near Chuncheon. Hard to believe what the country was capable of in the early 1950s.
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| Memorial |
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| Country flags |
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| Monument |
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Ethiopian map. Seeing Assosa on map triggers
lots of memories |
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| Inside Ethiopian Bet |
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| Bet entrance |
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Memories released by a cup of
coffee |
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| Favourite Ethiopian memories |
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| Favourite Ethiopian memories |
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| Favourite Ethiopian memories |
Pungmul Market was the happening market in Chuncheon. Recent news of the city investing 1 billion won ($684,000 USD) was an economic shot in the arm. My Friday night experience was disappointing. Most places were still closed around 7:30 pm and the fried squid I had was unpleasant. Hey ho! It was only a ten minute walk from my hotel so all is good.
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| Market is located under elevated train tracks |
Suwon
I arrived in Suwon on Saturday afternoon. It is my last SK destination before I fly to Helsinki from Incheon International Airport, Terminal 1 at 1:30 am early Tuesday morning. I wanted to avoid returning to Seoul and have easy access to the airport (1 hour bus ride). The big tourist destination in Suwon is Hwaseong Fortress which I'll visit before leaving the country.
Administration
If you are an adventurer, climber or hiker looking to challenge a mountain you may want to consult with the '
Mountain Weather Forecasts for Adventurers Worldwide' website. The website claims to '
Delivering trusted, elevation-specific weather forecasts for over 12,000 major summits globally'. I discovered the site when I was figuring out if I should go ahead with hiking Mount Bromo volcano on Java (Indonesia) and which day(s) might be best. I also used the website to determine the likelihood of a clear day to see Mt. Fuji while traveling in Japan. I also checked out the local weather forecast to supplement the information I had to make a decision. The elevation specific forecasts are particularly helpful if you are looking for favourable conditions for hiking and taking photos.
Next Week
I arrive in Helsinki on Tuesday, August 5 around 3:15 pm. after one last night in Suwon, SK. I'm starting the Scandinavian segment of my travels with plans to spend about seven days in each of Finland, Sweden, Norway and Denmark.
My Finland travel plan is to take the night train to Rovaniemi where I'll spend a couple nights. I'll have several hours in Helsinki before I board the train around midnight. Rovaniemi is in Lapland, near the Arctic Circle, and home to Santa Claus Village. I'll be traveling southward towards Helsinki throughout the week. I need to sort out the night train as I'd like to have a sleeper cabin for my trip.
I'd be delighted and honoured to 'see you' next week! Stay happy and healthy!
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