Kon'nichiwa, tomodachi! Hello, my friends! Ogenkidesuka? Konshū wa dōdeshita ka? How are you? How was your week?
I think I've overdosed on temples, shrines and castles this past week. The castles, which are broadly promoted as a tourist destination, involve walking up steep staircases in the castle keep for a view at the top. There is a limited amount of things to see on your way up as most floors are predominantly empty. The castle keep, being in its original state, is the big draw.
Looks like sharing a pristine photo of Mount Fuji with you is a non-starter for this trip. I'll need to be satisfied with the fuzzy view I had while in Tokyo. The weather was uncooperative when it made most sense to be near Fuji. Guess you'll need to plan to make the trip yourself - perhaps during spring blossom season.
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Seen at entrance to Buddhist Temple
How inviting! |
In the category of things I've noticed:
- PJs are now part of room amenities, kettles and tea are typically available, coffee (drip, premixed or instant) is hit and miss.
- Train/bus drivers wear white gloves, along with wearing company uniforms.
- Courtesy and politeness are so important while traveling in Japan. For example:
- Avoid eating while you are walking - rude behaviour.
- Avoid rushing to enter the train - dangerous for yourself and others.
The skies have cleared and the temperature has shot up to the mid-30s C as I traveled southward. Feeling a tad warm; the locals are certainly feeling the heat. Forecast is for continued warm weather throughout the country. I saw the weather forecast on the restaurant TV as I was eating my meal on Saturday night. The Himeji Castle's public announcement system cautioned visitors about the heat advisory and steps to avoid heat stroke!
BTW - Overtourism is an ongoing concern in Japan. In the past 10 years, the number of annual visitors has increased from 10 million to 30 million. You can find a plethora of articles on the topic. The drop in the yen against foreign currencies may be contributing. The Canadian dollar has appreciated about 26% against the yen, the USD even more so. I suspect the Euro makes Japan equally attractive to visit.
May the universe bring endless blessings and moments of magic 🦄 to you and your loved ones in the week ahead. 🙏
Travel Administration
The guy who tries to limit the number of apps on his mobile phone wants to share information about putting apps on your mobile phone to simplify your travels. The ironies in life...
Travel Maps
I am in my zig zag journey through Honshu Island heading towards Fukuoka on the northern coast of Kyushu Island. I think Nagasaki, about two hours southwest of Fukuoka, will be the furthest south I'll travel in Japan on this trip.
Japan: June 15 to June 21, 2025
Kyoto
I've made the choice to avoid visiting Osaka, which is hosting the 2025 World Expo, on this trip. The idea of being with a horde of tourists is unappealing.
Kyoto was the country's capital from the 9th century to 1868 when the Meiji restoration happened transforming the country into a democracy with voting and the Diet being launched.
In my visit to the Kanazawa Tourist Information office, I received a two page summary of key temples and shrines in Kyoto and Nara that had been personally compiled by Ryuichi Matsuda, one of the two staff members I was speaking with. I felt the universe had bestowed another special gift in my adventure. I was curious how many of the sixteen destinations I could visit on Sunday.
Is the former palace of the Emperor of Japan, located in Kamigyō-ku, Kyoto, Japan. Since the Meiji Restoration in 1869, the Emperors have resided at the Tokyo Imperial Palace, while the preservation of the Kyoto Imperial Palace was ordered in 1877.
My disappointment with the visit was being limited to walking around the palace buildings without having a peek inside.
The Approach
The palace is located in an immense park. Loads of walking based on Google's directions.
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| That's the palace in the distance |
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| Palace wall |
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| A palace gate |
Palace Grounds
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| Map of palace grounds |
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| Carriage porch |
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| Explanation |
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| Receiving room |
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| Receiving Room info |
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| Carriage Porch |
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| Inner courtyard entrance |
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| Inner courtyard - different entrance |
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| Some beautiful lanterns |
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| See info on right info board |
Gardens
Enjoy the beauty!
On my way out
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| On the way to the exit |
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| Watch out for heat stroke |
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| So much walking on these grounds! |
Next stop, after a fifteen minute bus ride, was Nijo-jo Castle. The castle, built in samurai style, was completed in 1603 on the orders of Tokugawa Ieyasu, the founder and first Shogun of the Tokugawa Shogunate (1603-1867). Tokugawa Ieyasu unified Japan after a long period of civil war, and ushered in a period of over 260 years of peace and prosperity.
Taking photos inside the palace was prohibited.
Castle
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| Castle info |
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| Entrance to palace grounds |
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| Entrance to inner courtyard |
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| Castle |
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Photo that I mistakenly took inside the palace
before remembering the ban on taking photos |
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I thought these twin bells
were interesting |
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| Bell info |
Gardens
Another garden to enjoy!
Another brief bus ride to the day's first temple.
Hongwanji is the head temple of the Jodo Shinshu Hongwanji-ha Buddhist organization. Japanese Buddhist temples usually have its honorific mountain name and the one for Hongwanji is Ryukokuzan. Therefore, the temple’s official name is Ryukokuzan Hongwanji, however, its nickname “Nishi (lit., “west”) Hongwanji” is rather well known to people. The founder of the Jodo Shinshu teaching is Shinran Shonin (1173–1263) who lived in the early medieval period of Japan.
Entrance
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| Entrance |
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| How inviting! |
Temples
There are two separate temples, side by each, for followers to pray.
Next bus ride was to Toji Temple. The temple's five-story pagoda, built in 1644, is the tallest wooden tower (55 meters) in Japan.
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| Read all about it - if you can |
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| Entrance |
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| Under repair |
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| Five-story wooden pagoda |
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| Gardens |
Another bus ride brings me to the temple with a 1000 Buddhas! Ban on photos inside. I found an image through Google to share what I witnessed when I walked through the temple.
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Last stop of the day. A subway ride and short train ride brought me to Fushimi Inari Taisha, the head shrine to the estimated 30,000 Inari shrines in Japan. with which all the others are affiliated.
In the 1300 years since its establishment in 711AD, people have gathered here to pray for bountiful harvests, business prosperity, the safety of their home and family and the fulfillment of all kinds of other wishes.
Fushimi Inari Taisha is now known worldwide as one of the most iconic sights in Kyoto, and in Japan as a whole. As far as I was concerned, this destination was overrun with tourists. Instagram heaven! The big draw are the 5,000 plus torri gates that snake their way in the hills behind the shrine as I tried to capture in the photos below. I thought the whole experience was circus like; overlooking its religious significance. Just saying!
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| Entrance |
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| Main Shrine Building (Honden) |
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| Let the torii gates begin |
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Looking uphill -
between the two corridors |
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| Looking downhill |
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| As far as the eye can see! |
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| So long! |
Nara
My primary reason for being in Nara was to take a day trip to Ise, a small city where my friend Samuel lived when he was in Japan. He also mentioned the surrounding area had national parks for hiking and outdoor activities. Unfortunately I canceled my day trip due to the rainy weather. It can be so unpleasant being outside in the pouring rain. I spent my time finishing up my weekly blog and visiting two more temples on my list that were nearby.
Samuel had also highlighted that Nara Park was well known for the plethora of deer that roam freely throughout the park, looking for food handouts from tourists.
I had the good fortune of the universe assisting me, manifested as a teenage girl, in finding the right trains to reach the two temples. As I was muddled my way through trying to figure out the cost and trains to take, a teenage girl suddenly came to my assistance. She confirmed the cost and the trains I needed to take. She also suggested (through translation software) that we get on the first train together as she was going in the same direction. After arriving at the first station, she also took the time to bring me to train platform I needed to be at and directed me to the train I needed to take. And with a smile and my thanks, she was off. What an incredible gift!
Is a Buddhist temple complex that was once one of the powerful Seven Great Temples. You can also find the world's largest bronze statue of the Buddha Vairocana, known in Japanese as Daibutsu. within this temple complex.
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| Home of world's largest bronze Buddha Vairocana |
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| Doors to Great Buddha Hall |
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| Bronze Buddha |
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| The Great South Gate |
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| Guarding the Great South Gate |
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| Guarding the Great South Gate |
A short bus ride from Todai-ji Temple is another Buddhist temple, with history dating back to 669. The temple was once one of the powerful Seven Great Temples in the city of Nara, Japan. The temple is the national headquarters of the Hossō school.
Taking photos inside the temple is strictly prohibited. Buddha seems to be somewhat finicky when it comes to taking his photo. Sometimes it's ok and sometimes it is forbidden.
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| Central Golden Hall |
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| Pagoda under restoration |
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| Central Golden Hall |
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| In front of Central Golden Hall |
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| Model of Restored Pagoda |
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The small cups by each stone caught my
attention |
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| Guiding light |
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| Posters have images from inside the temples |
As I mentioned above, with kind assistance of a teenage girl, and rides on two diffferent train lines, I was at my first temple of the day. No photos of Buddha, please!
'Toshodaiji was the first temple in Japan to be devoted to one of the Chinese Buddhist denominations --- namely the Nanzan school. Even today Toshodaiji is regarded as the head temple of Japan’s Ritsu-shu denomination of Buddhist teachings.'
About a kilometer or so down the road, towards the train station, was my second temple visit for the day.
Yakushiji Temple is a temple with a 1300 year history that was that was established by Emperor Tenmu to pray for the recovery of his consort (who would later become Empress Jito) from an illness. The Yakushi Triad is a set of principal images that remained since the time of the temple's founding and they are renown as the world most beautiful Buddha statutes.
What was interesting about this temple was that it had two pagodas whereas I had been used to seeing just one.
While the skies were threatening rain all day, we only experienced one brief shower.
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Many tourist sites have directions
like this sign to guide visitors |
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| Lotus flowers in bloom |
Kobe
With nine of sixteen of the destinations from Ryuichi's list visited, I moved onto Kobe for an overnight stay. Kobe is on the west side of Osaka, albeit the city boundaries seem to be blurred. With Kyoto to the northeast and Nara to the west, I had successfully circumvented Osaka. Full disclosure - my train connection to Kobe was through Osaka Station.
Two things I knew about Kobe was Kobe beef and a good place for jazz music - Samuel had alerted me the possibility. I skipped the Kobe beef sampling as it had little appeal. Jazz, well that is entirely something else! My visit to the Tourist Information Centre prepped me for my Kobe adventure. The woman helping me confirmed that the jazz club I was proposing, Sone, to visit was the place to be.
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Street running parallel to train station -
opposite direction |
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| Street running parallel to train station |
After a fifteen minute walk and a brief gondola ride up a small hillside, I was enjoying a panoramic view of Kobe and Osaka Bay. I skipped the downhill walk through the herb garden, opting to ride the gondola. I had a couple other places to visit on this rather warm and humid day.
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Looking up the ropeway, and the
reflection of my hand (oops!) |
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| Ropeway terminal |
'Leafy Kitanocho is known for its Western-style mansions built for merchants and diplomats in the 19th and early 20th centuries.'
I decided to walk through this neighbourhood, close to the ropeway, as I meandered my way back to the hotel. The first set at the jazz club started at 6:30 pm. One of those places to visit since I was close by, otherwise I would have skipped it. You may have a better appreciation for the historical significance and/or enjoy the houses and scenic hillside location.
I may be developing an addiction to shrines and temples. They are omnipresent. Many shrines, like this one, are set in beautiful locations. Wonderful diversion!
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| Entrance |
Kobe Beef Museum
And there it was - the Kobe Beef Museum. My lucky day continues. The best I could do was take the photos I'm sharing. As appealing as the following museum description was, I skipped my chance to visit. Late in the day.
'Delve into the fascinating history of Kobe beef at the Kobe Beef Museum. This interactive museum showcases the origins of the Tajima-gyu breed, the strict grading system, and the meticulous care that goes into raising and preparing Kobe beef. You’ll also find a variety of exhibits dedicated to the cultural significance of Kobe beef in Japan.'
I had the best time ever at the jazz club. I had a front row table on a relatively quiet evening. I enjoyed three sets of jazz music played by three musicians who were obviously passionate about their music. The singer was equally talented. I could have easier been in a North American jazz club. Sone, the jazz club in this area, was established in 1969.
The drummer, Takashi Kuge, stopped by my table to thank me for staying for the three sets. He also introduced me to the
Osaka Jazz Channel which he hosts. I also had brief conversations with the pianist and vocalist.
I also had a brief conversation with Matthew and his partner, Winny after the third set. Matthew was born in Shanghai and now lives in Toronto, Canada. A big jazz fan who equally enjoyed the night's music. He also gave me details about an underground jazz club in Tokyo he discovered and recommended.
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| My steak sandwich - non Kobe beef btw |
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In case you are in Tokyo and want a jazz club
experience |
I decided to experiment, in a small way, with my train travel in visiting Himeji. I rode to Himeji, parked my suitcase in a coin locker, and walked to the castle with my backpack. The multitude of trains stopping in Himeji meant I could easily reach Okayama, my end of day destination without any long delays. Once my castle visit was completed, I was back at the station to get my ticket and suitcase and continue on my way.
The following Wikipedia description provides good context why I added this castle to my travel plans.
'The castle is regarded as the finest surviving example of prototypical Japanese castle architecture, comprising a network of 83 rooms with advanced defensive systems from the feudal period. The castle is frequently known as Hakuro-jō or Shirasagi-jō ("White Egret Castle" or "White Heron Castle") because of its brilliant white exterior and supposed resemblance to a bird taking flight.' (Wikipedia)
The keep I ascended was mainly empty space with a few displays on a few of the floors. I guess the important fact I've overlooked in visiting this castle, in retrospect that is, is that the keep is wooden. I've now decided to avoid entering Japanese castles for the remainder of my visit. Sorry!
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| Keep Info |
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| City view from top of keep |
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| City view from top of keep |
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| City view from top of keep |
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| City view from top of keep |
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| Castle model |
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| Castle and grounds |
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| Castle on the hill |
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| Entrance |
You could visit the garden by paying an extra 50 yen on your castle ticket. That was a deal!
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| Gardens map |
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| Garden entrance |
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Got to love those supersized fish. They are in every
Japanese garden. |
Around the City
I had read to pay attention to the manhole covers when visiting Himeji. How a little extra effort can transform the cover into something that is more aesthetically pleasing! What a great idea!
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| Novel way to distinguish toilets |
I was in Okayama a short time after leaving Himeji. I bought my train ticket at the Himeji Station just before boarding the train, retrieved my suitcase, and I was off. I had a couple hours before the museums and garden closed for the day.
This museum was conveniently next to the garden. Sadly, I was barred from taking photos inside. The best I can share is a link to the museum and these two photos of the exterior.
This garden is one of the top three gardens in Japan. I've now visited two of the top three gardens, the first being in Kanazawa. This garden is far less lush than the Kanazawa garden so it took me a little while to appreciate its unique beauty. Drawing comparisons can be so restrictive in one's thinking. Please enjoy the years of effort invested to create this amazing experience!
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| Garden layout |
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| More facts to fill your head |
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| Oh look, a water wheel |
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| I'm a sucker for budding flowers! |
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Also like to capture flowers in all
phases of their blooming. |
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| Great place to take a break and enjoy the sun |
I had a little more time the following morning to visit this museum. It also opened at 9:30 am affording me more flexibility. Ban in place on taking photos of the collection. I continue to be fascinated by the architect's ability to create such beautiful spaces for art work. The building is a piece of art itself!
On the Street
The word has gotten out about having decorative manhole covers!
Matsue - City of Water
Matsue is known as the “City of Water” due to its unique location on the north coast being a meeting point between Lake Shinji, Lake Nakaumi, and the Sea of Japan. It’s beauty is derived from: the natural landscape, the sea salt air, the endless ocean pushing into the distance. Matsue Castle is one of the twelve original castles still standing throughout Japan. I chose the city randomly to follow my zig zag pattern across Honshu Island. I'm discovering every city has an interesting story to explore. It is very hard to 'go wrong' irrespective of where you travel.
After arriving in Matsue, I followed my regular routine of visiting the Tourist Info Centre. What a godsend that visit was. My intention was to visit Vogel Park (which I had read about) that afternoon as I knew the following morning was a non-starter. I learned from the tourist centre staff I would need to take a train at a different local train station that was about a mile away. I would need to take the 3:45 departure (20 minute ride)if I wanted to have enough time prior to the park's 5:30 pm closing. Well, the universe lined up the stars in my favour. The hotel reception team ordered a taxi while I dropped off my suitcase in my room. Taxi was waiting when I came down. I arrived at the station with a few minutes to spare. When I inquired about the return train ticket to the park, the staff member ended up selling me a train ticket that included a discounted park pass. I discovered the deal he gave me somewhat after the fact - as I was trying to figure out what had just happened in our lightning fast transaction.
Train Ride
Introducing the Matsue-Shinjiko-Onsen Station where I took the train on the Ichibata Densha-Kita-Matsue Line to Matsue Vogel Park.
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| Train exterior |
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| Train interior - definitely from a different era |
Park
The park is about a 20 minute ride (get off at the fifth stop). I was initially unsure I got off at the right stop given the empty parking lot and the non-descript building I saw in the distance. Sure enough, I was at the park on a much slower day. The park has birds and flowers on display. A covered walkway through the park means your visit is insulated from the weather.
I leave you with a sampling of the photos I took. I was in flower heaven. The birds were equally interesting. I hope you enjoy the flowers as much as I did!
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| Park entrance - |
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| Escalator - looking up |
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| Top of escalator |
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| Carved seating |
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| View of park lookout |
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| View of park lookout |
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| View of park lookout |
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| View of park lookout |
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| View of park lookout |
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| View of park lookout |
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| Off to the avairy |
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| Walking in the midst of birds |
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| Pink flamingos |
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Two flamingos in the background were having
a disagreement |
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| Owl on right gave the greatest pose! |
'The canals were built throughout the town to protect the castle remain largely unchanged from when they were first constructed over 400 years ago. Although they have been narrowed in some areas, they still follow a centuries-old course along the old stone walls of the castle and preserved Edo period street Shiomi Nawate.'
Dinner
My noodles had a twist in Matsue - no broth. With Google Maps' assistance, I stopped at Yu-San restaurant for what turned out to be a great dining experience. I was their only customer at the time. I also enjoyed the best deep fried tofu ever.
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| Counter |
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| Menu - I had the third item from the top |
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Noodles come in three bowls stacked on each other.
You pour flavouring and mix in the greens |
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| Deep fried tofu |
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| Host in front, chef in back |
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| Ohashi River |
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| Ohashi River |
In the two hours I had on the following morning, I attempted to visit the castle and Shimane Art Museum. I was sticking to my plan of keeping out of castles as my visits to castle interiors had been disappointing. Please enjoy the Matsue Castle vistas.
It was on the way to the art museum (about 9:30 am) that I discovered that my checkout was 10 am, not 11 am I thought I had heard at check-in. I'd have only enough time to take a few photos of the building before heading back to my hotel. I was now calculating I could be back by 10:15 and avoid extra room charges.
Exterior
The museum is lakeside and offers an amazing view of daily sunsets, on the days it is open. The museum stays open until 30 minutes after sunset so people can enjoy the sunset from the museum. How cool is that!?
Interior
The woman at the ticket office granted my wish to take a few photos inside the museum. Goodness, I wish I had had more time to spend inside the building. I loved what the architect had created with the space. Such imagination!
I debated where I'd go after visiting Matsue. My key objective was exploring another location prior to reaching Hiroshima. My two options were Miyoshi (off the beaten path) or Takamatsu on Japan’s Shikoku Island (so I could add another Japanese island to my list of destinations). I chose Miyoshi because the hotel rooms in Takamatsu were insanely expensive. They were equally inconvenient to travel to.
Train Ride
Reaching Myoshi involved three trains and two transfers. I also had my definition of a 'local' train more clearly defined. Yes, Japan Rail has one car trains that connect people. Most of the people on my tow local trains were train enthusiasts judging from the photos they took. Local train engineers are much more casual about their customer interactions. They are keenly focused on safety and procedures.
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| From Niimi to Bingo-Ochiai (about 90 min) |
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| Train interior |
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| Train from Bingo-Ochiai to Myoshi (about 90 min) |
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| Cherry Blossom Express? |
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| Bingo-Ochiai Train Station |
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| Arrived in train on right; departed with train on left |
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| Scenery during local train ride |
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| Scenery during local train ride |
About Town
Myoshi is a small city (less than 50,000 residents) that is referred by one
website as follows:
'If you are serious about getting off the beaten track or looking for a country break, rural Miyoshi is well worth checking out.' The city is one more destination I wish I had taken more time along with having a vehicle to get into the great outdoors.
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| Tourist highlight |
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| Bridges are important tourist sites |
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| Shopping street - late Saturday afternoon |
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| Cormorant Fishing Monument (train station) |
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| Cormorant Fishing Monument (train station) |
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| Random tile on riverside walkway |
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| Manhole cover design |
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| Manhole cover design |
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Thought mispronouncing this company name could
be interesting |
Basen/Saijo Rivers
The Saijo River spills into the Basen River.
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| Saijo River on left |
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| Looking to Miyoshi's CBD |
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Looking into the hills surrounding the city
Saijo River in foreground |
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| Looking into the hills surrounding the city |
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| Looking into the hills surrounding the city |
Administration
I've had to overcome a personal mandate to only have 'essential' apps on my phone. I'm the guy who still thinks my mobile phone should be used as a phone. 🤣🤣🤣 An invaluable app for my train travel in Japan is the Japan Transit Planner, an app recommended by Japan Rail. I was able to fix the settings to present transit solutions that met the restrictions on my Japan Rail Pass. You can discover more apps by reading blogs or by having your AI tool search on your behalf. I've also gotten the heads up that I'll be parting company (temporarily) with Google Maps for my South Korean adventures. Apparently Naver Map is the application to use. More about this development in the weeks ahead.
Next Week
I'm in Fukuoaka for three nights with plans for.a day trip to visit Nagasaki where the second atomic bomb was dropped. I'm still working on my Thursday plans. I fly to Seoul, South Korea on Friday am to start my 32 days in South Korea. I'll be in Seoul for three nights. I'm thinking about gearing my time in South Korea towards spending more time in fewer locations including time at the beach!
I'd be delighted and honoured to 'see you' next week! Stay happy and healthy!
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