Hiya! Welcome back! Great to see back to join in this adventure for another week. The past week was the first full week in Western Australia.
The weather continues to be warm - in the mid to high 20s C near the coast (mid 80s) rising to low 30s (low 90s) as you move inland driving between coastal destinations.
Driving in Western Australia has a new wrinkle - road trains. These are tractor units hauling several trailers up to a max total length of 42m (138 ft.). The road trains first appeared on the highway during this trip on the way to Albany. I've been blessed the drivers have indicated with their right flasher when it was safe to pass. The another blessing is the much lighter traffic on the roads as I headed east towards Esperance. I can add the road trains to monitoring bushfires, kangaroos, wandering cattle and weather conditions that form part of the Australian driving experience.
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| Sample Three Trailer Road Train |
The motel experience has been an interesting shift from NZ. I've had to say goodbye to plunger coffee and hot chocolate. I've stayed in two places where I accessed my room key through a lockbox without any human contact - shades of Covid. The room decor in most places on the coast is late 1990s; fortunately it is clean and well-maintained.
I sometimes feel like a kid with a shiny bauble when I'm traveling. Every time I start traveling in a different country I find the country I'm now in even more appealing than the country I just left. I especially loved Esperance, a city of 14,450 (from a sign I saw when driving into the city), that has a small town vibe with so many beautiful beaches. Great variety of activities and a real sense of freedom.
Travel Administration
This week's focus is distinguishing from friendly locals who are just friendly and those friendly local people who may be looking for something more than a conversation.
Travel Maps
Tracking this past week's travel within Western Australia starting in Margaret River:
Western Australia: January 27 - February 8, 2025
Margaret River to Albany
This Tree Top Walk in the tingle trees was an unexpected gift. The 600m (~2000 ft) walkway was easy to access, had a wide stable floor for taking photos and sufficiently long and high enough to experience the trees magnificence. There was a second forest floor walk that was both informative and entertaining. The other plus was the brief cool respite from the hot day. Also had a brief convo with Helen, an employee, who was walking through the parking lot.
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| Forest floor |
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| Forest floor |
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| Look up, way up! |
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| Out for the day |
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Entrance fee - $21
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| Map for grounds |
This National Park, home to Greens Pool and Elephant Rocks, is about an hour from prior to arriving at Albany. Both destinations are within easy walking distance, on sealed pathways, from the same carpark.
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| Easy walk to both locations |
Like the park website describes, turquoise blue water in a sheltered bay with soft white sand. The Southern Ocean water temperature is 'fresh'.
So, I think one needs to use their imagination to see the herd of elephants in the formation of these rocks. The power of suggestion.
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| The elephants... |
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| Real easy to access |
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| Nice beach for swimming |
Many thanks to my new BFF, Karen, from the Albany Visitor Centre. She equipped me with the maps and local insights so I could fully enjoy my stay. Karen had spent a year working at Blue Mountain, a ski resort about two hours north of Toronto (in a year where there was lots of natural snow). She had also traveled extensively across Canada including Saskatoon (think northern Saskatchewan), Calgary and Vancouver. When I mentioned I was considering going on the Orca whale watching boat trip, Karen made the off hand remark so save my $400 as I could see the Orcas for free off Canada's west coast. That's what she did. hahaha
This National Park, home to The Gap and the Natural Bridge, is about twenty minutes outside Albany. Sealed roads, sealed paths, toilets and a special viewing platform to experience The Gap - definitely a popular destination.
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| Ocean was quiet during my visit. |
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| Approaching the Natural Bridge |
Just a short walk in the opposite direction is The Gap. There is an opening in the rock formation where the ocean rushes in and the waves splash against the rock wall creating a dramatic spray - even when the ocean seems to be quiet. A special viewing platform, with a grate floor for more viewing access, was built to enhance one's viewing pleasure. The platform extends from the rock face opposite where waves splash to provide an unobstructed view of the wave action.
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The special viewing platform extending over
the rock face |
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The engineering facts behind the platform's
construction - should you need to know. |
A short distance down the road from The Gap is the Blowholes. Sorry to say, I was unable to witness the blowholes in action. After a somewhat extended downhill walk to where the blowholes were located, the path suddenly stopped without further instructions where to find the blowholes. I could hear the rush of the ocean against the rocks, but that was all. I also had the wrong footwear on to be scrambling across the bare rock that I thought led to a better view.
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| We're going downhill to the ocean |
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| Beautiful views everywhere |
The beaches are endless in this part of the world. My motel was two blocks away from Middleton Beach which is a big tourist draw in Albany. Another beach that goes on forever. Small jetty and large roped off area for swimming. Extensive change room, picnic areas, shower and toilet facilities to enjoy the beach. You got to love the 'fresh' ocean water.
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| Middleton Beach |
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| Southern Ocean |
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Middleton Beach, in background,
extends into next community |
The highest point in Albany is reserved for Albany Heritage Park which hosts a number of World War memorials. Albany is the port location that the 30,000 Australian and New Zealand (ANZAC) soldiers sailed to join in World War 1. Sobering and sombre in all this beauty. How grateful for the willingness of these men and women to put their lives on the line for their country.
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| Like I say, the views are non-stop |
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| Memorial from Padre White Lookout |
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| Padre White Lookout |
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| Always a hill to climb |
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| Memorial |
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This walkway has several signposts
with historical context or soldiers' letters.
Puts life into perspective. |
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Convoy Lookout
Overlooks where the ships departed |
This lookout is located next to the Albany Wind Farm. There are hiking trails and a boardwalk leading to the beach below. More amazing views of the ocean and coast line.
Murals are everywhere in Western Australia. I ended up in a private company's parking lot to take the this photo. There was a lack of any other 'safe' location to stop for a photo. It's just there without any signposts to explain its history or provide context.
Imagine yourself being the person with the idea of building a steel walkway on the side of a granite rock in the middle of a national park that is in a remote location (about 40 minutes from Albany). Better yet, we'll have people walk 2.2 km (a mile and a bit) uphill, do some scrambling over granite rocks, climb a 7 m ladder to get on the skywalk. I suppose your sales pitch might be 'If we build it, they will come.'
Well, that's what they built and the people, like me, did come.
My photos omit the boulder scramble to get to the ladder. There are two short sections where you need to climb up some boulders, steel hand grips in boulders provided, to get to the base of the ladder.
I met Phil and his son Ben while on the SkyWalk. Phil, who is 64 and from England, was visiting his son Ben (who lives in Perth with his partner). Phil has what I think is an interesting business. He builds specialized display stands for museums and other specialty locations. It's a niche market that his business has thrived in. His daughter is managing the business while he and his wife are in Australia.
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| Explaining the boulder's balancing act |
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| In perfect natural balance |
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| Rock face from Skywalk |
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| SkyWalk |
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| See forever |
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The 37 year old woman in photo
explained how collagen has changed her life |
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| Ladder to heaven? |
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| Looking up towards boulder |
There are a couple highlights to see in Ravensthorpe which is about 30 minutes away from Hopetoun. One is the silo art; the second is the wildflower exposition in September. Apparently the wildflower event is one of the largest in the world. Go figure the things you find out.
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Background info/viewing area |
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Check out YouTube for more info about
painting these silos |
The unexpected highlight in Ravensthorpe was meeting two fellow Canadians, Lucas and Mihaela, who previously rented a place in the Beaches area of Toronto. I met them coincidentally. They were sitting outside Yummylicious, a sweets store that had ice cream that I was looking for on a very hot day. Lucas' North American accent caught my attention when he responded to my greeting. They had been traveling throughout Australia in a truck they bought for the last five months. They had a week left prior to returning to Calgary, Alberta, Canada where Mihaela was to start a new job. The current average temperature in Calgary is about minus 15 C (around 0F). The temperature where we were talking was 36C (97F). Trust they will adjust. Yikes!
I stopped in Hopetoun (pronounced Hopetown) for a night to break up the 5 - 6 hour (500km/310 miles) drive from Albany to Esperance. While my first impression of the place was 'what did I just do?', I was about to discover I got much more than I expected.
With limited accommodation options, I ended up staying in a three bedroom house rental in a small retirement community (about 100 homes) about 4 minutes from the small town. It's like being in the middle of nowhere in my mind. These are mobile homes worth about $150K that you pick up and move if you want a new location. I know all this and much more from my convo with Brian, a resident, who I met the next morning while I was having a coffee on the house's front verandah. He was watering his small patch of grass and his neighbours' 'lawns' early in the morning
Brian is retired from the mining industry having worked in a senior role for International Nickel and Anglo American Mines. He had a rich history with several stories about how he helped others who found themselves in dire circumstances. One instance was when a mine manager pulled a gun on an employee. Instead of getting the police involved, he asked to meet with the man. He called the guy, took him that he was on his way to see him and to have his bags packed as he was out of a job. He met with the guy, advised him to return to his family in NZ and get his life sorted out. And that is exactly what this mine manager did as he got in touch in Brian a few years later to thank him. This is just one of many stories he shared in about 45 minutes. I found myself wanting to stay a few more days to learn more.
I also had a few brief convos with the couple, with the two primary school age children, that lived across the laneway from my place. They were super nice people who I learned had just moved into the community about 10 days earlier.
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| Twelve Mile beach |
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| Twelve Mile beach |
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| Twelve Mile beach |
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| Two Mile beach |
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| Two Mile beach |
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| Two Mile beach |
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| Two Mile beach |
BTW - There is Five Mile beach as well that I drove past without stopping take photos, sorry!
I discovered there was a sealed road to this inlet so off I went to explore. I was the only person at the beach on Thursday morning. Apparently, one can make arrangements to take a houseboat cruise around the inlet. I've shared all sorts of information about the inlet and Fitzgerald River National Park where the inlet is located.
This lookout is just inside the National Park. It provides yet another jaw dropping view of the beaches near Hopetoun and the general area surrounding Hopetoun.
It's Thursday afternoon and time to visit the local tourist information centre. Lyn was another exceptional person who helped me map out where I might visit. I also met Denise, originally from Southern California, on Saturday when I was following up on questions I had about other potential destinations.
I've included this photo of the Community Arts Center as a reminder of the second extraordinary convo I had on Thursday - Brian in the morning (Hopetoun) and Thuriyya in the afternoon (Esperance). I had seen her moving about outside the building; it's that invisible hand that sometimes guides me. I entered the centre and a convo was launched. She facilitated community sponsored art workshops on Wednesdays and Thursdays. Thursdays workshops was focused on using natural ingredients to make dyes that were used to create colourful dyed t-shirts. When she was working, she also used to manage the Shire's extended care program. She was also on a committee that launched a multi-cultural food fair that had 25 different ethnic groups sharing their national foods. She also spoke about being a Muslim woman from Egypt working in Esperance. Finally, she spoke about the book she is writing about Cape Le Grand National Park. She's been visiting the park frequently asking people about their park experiences. Prior to leaving on Sunday, I left a book (spiritual stuff related to shamans) that I had been packing with me for her - through Denise. Turns out Denise used to work for Thuriyya in extended care.
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| Local clock tower |
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| Interesting sunset from Esplande |
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A curious mini lighthouse to add to
my list |
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| As the sunset fades into dusk |
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Whale tail sculpture on Esplande
created by two local artists |
I drove this length of road three times in the three nights I spent in Esperance. Beach after beach with white sand, crystal clear turquoise coloured water, wind blowing and crashing waves. Everything I enjoy about being near or at a beach. The power and beauty of Mother Nature in action.
Fourth Beach was where the best wind and breaks were for kite and wind surfing. There was one surfer who was amazing eloquent as he/she launched into the air off waves, landing ever so gently on the water's surface. I spent a fair amount of time watching in fascination and awe!
Sadly, this lake lost its 'pinkness' almost ten years ago. They continue to promote the lake while admitting the colour is long gone and limited possibility of the pink ever being restored. It's been dry in the area so the best I saw was all the white salt residue as the water receded. The change has much to do with building the highway I drove on to get to Esperance plus a few other man made factors.
This is the park that Thuriyya, the art centre woman I met, is writing about. The park beaches are highly desirable destinations.
This beach is about 60 km (38 mi) from Esperance, the furthest beach of all the beaches in the park. The beach is drivable so AWD vehicles are on the beach. Beautiful white sand, amazing turquoise blue water (it's cold, my friends) and lots of space to explore.
This highly promoted piece of granite, which derives its name from its similarity to an old styled French soldier helmet, has a trail leading to its summit. It's a difficult climb with lots of scrambling across the bare granite surface. The views from the summit are much acclaimed. I decided to enjoy the view of the Peak itself from a distance. You know, at the risk of sounding I am ungrateful, there comes a time when there is only so many breathtaking views a person can absorb. I am truly starting to understand how one can be surrounded by immense beauty and almost be immune to the gift that you are part of.
I skipped walking to the beach at this stop. This rock, which makes a whistling sound, was silent during my visit.
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| Whistling Rock |
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| Love the wave action on the shore |
Yet another beautiful white sand beach - without the vehicles on the beach this time. I met a couple uni students while having lunch in the picnic area. 'M' shared background of her experiences leading to her ADHD diagnosis. She was a self-admitted bright person who had so many struggles until she sought medical care. Her medication has changed her life. She can now enjoy life. While most of the convo focused on M, I was able to find out that Calib had traveled to Bali a couple times and Singapore once. There was a school trip to Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam in the works for later this year. They (there was five of them) had driven from Perth on a day trip to the beach!
My last beach visit was Le Grand beach. There was a total of two people swimming at this beach. As the sign below indicates there is the potential to drive the 23 km (14 mi) to Wylie Bay. Pay heed to the cautionary notes if you want to drive on the beach!
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Travel Administration
While I maintain a friendly disposition when I'm traveling, willing to talk with others, I'm also vigilant to stay aware of my surroundings and what that friendly stranger may want. I've had a few occasions where my internal alarm bells sounded loudly so I kept my distance. For example, when I was in Colombo, Sri Lanka's capital, I had three different men approach me in the space of one morning trying to help me. A common approach to be ingratiating is to express familiarity with your country of origin. The familiarity, especially in a foreign location, is a great way to have you lower your defenses. Another tactic is to offer you to see a special ceremony - the person will suggest getting in a taxi that somehow just magically appeared. I met a woman on a train going to Kuala Lumpur, the capital of Malaysia, who I exchanged WhatsApp contact info with. She suggested that she pick me up at my hotel for a personalized tour of the capital. Don't think so. One last example that happened in both Paris and Rome (and can happen anywhere). I was approached by a man looking for directions - play on our basic willingness to be helpful. The conversation quickly turned into someone trying to sell me something from a vehicle. Beware and be careful!
Next Week
I've now completed traveling the southern coast. I'll be driving diagonally across the state to reach Jurien Bay on the west coast. Given the drive from Esperance to Jurien Bay is about 10 hours, I've booked Sunday night in Hyden so I can visit the famous Wave Rock. I'm driving six hours to Jurien Bay on Monday morning for the next three nights. I'm about to book accommodations for the balance of the week. The master plan remains to drive to Exmouth before heading back to Perth for my February 25 flight to Bali.
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One weather tool available from the
Australian Met Service. Most upcoming
destinations are outside the heatwave warning
zone - so far. |
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