Greetings and salutations from Gangneung on SK's east coast. I trust the universe's benevolence has filled your past week with blessings and magical moments. I'm starting to meander my way towards Mokpo where I'm thinking I'll take the fast boat to Jeju Island. I've been successfully in the past week to spend more time at the beach and hiking in the mountains.
I forgot to mention we are back to driving on the right hand side of the road. Pedestrians beware - there is inconsistency in driver's attitudes towards being in the crosswalk or indicating you are about to enter the crosswalk. Local bus drivers drive aggressively racing to every stop and jumping on the brakes at the last minute so hang on tight. The electrical outlets have reverted to Type F or Type G configurations. My current hotel room has both types. BTW - there are 15 different types of electrical outlets in use worldwide!
I'm slowly adjusting to being in my new country of travel. I've been the beneficiary of so many acts of kindness in my first week. A couple people stopped to help sort out the subway line I should be on in Seoul, younger bus passengers have given their seats for me, the tourist info people have been especially helpful and I even got a small bag of flavoured popcorn with a takeout order for free. I also share more of these gifts of kindness in this week's blog.
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| Ulsanbawi Rock |
Our DMZ tour guide, Grace, made a comment about SK's economic progress that opened my naive eyes. The South Korean people have worked a small miracle in becoming a regional economic powerhouse since 1953, basically starting from scratch. The home of Samsung and Hyundai/Kia. SK is the most connected nation in the world with over 90% of their people on broadband. What an achievement!
Weather was sooo good over the past week. Low 30s (mid-80s) with a breeze off of the East Sea when I am close to the beach. I even ditched the umbrella and rain jacket I typically have in my daypack cuz the weather forecasted. We are expecting rain early next week as a typhoon passes SK's east coast.
Travel update: I learned during the week that my proposed trip to Nepal in November 2026 has been moved up to the last three weeks of March 2026. I've been invited to visit the completed water project that provides easy access to clean water for a small Nepalese village. (and villagers). I had made a small donation towards this project last August. More potential adventure in the near future.
May the universe bring endless blessings and moments of magic 🦄 to you and your loved ones in the week ahead. 🙏
Travel Administration
My time in Japan has reawaken my sensibilities about proper manners and etiquette. I'm speculating my renewed attention to my behaviour was provoked by the 'uniformity' I experienced while traveling in Japan. Unlike many countries I've visited where there are strong regional differences, there is a baseline for public conduct throughout Japan. I have further info to share so you be a great guest in Japan.
Travel Maps
I was visiting the Civilian Control Line (CCL), next to the DMZ, on the South/North Korea border at the week's start. I took the bus to Sokcho on the east coast to get a mix of being near the beach and hiking in Seroaksan National Park. I ended the week in Gangneung to spend more time by a popular beach in SK. I've also found an alternative approach to track my SK travel using Google Maps - drawing lines between the destinations I visit. Less elegant, however the approach provides a good idea of where the different locations are.
South Korea: July 4 to August 5. 2025
DMZ (Civilian Control Line)
Welcome to the Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) visit that really isn't a DMZ visit. I've had an ongoing interest in the DMZ fuelled by watching the TV show MASH 4077 as I was growing up and the more recent news prompted by President Trump's repartee with North Korea.
The only way to get close to the DMZ is to join a sanctioned bus tour. The area you do visit is referred to as the
Civilian Access Control Line which was created after the armistice was signed to prevent civilians coming into harm's way and accidentally triggering renewed fighting. You do see the DMZ and peer into North Korea during your tour.
The DMZ irony is this zone is likely the most militarized DMZ in the world!
The bus tour's first stop is at the Imjingak Park to pick up the tickets to access the CCL, establish context for about where you are relative to the DMZ, South Korea and North Korea. It's also a somber and sobering chance to learn about the tragedies of this war. There is also a moving memorial to the Korean women who suffered as comfort women, in the hands of the invading Japanese army between 1932 and 1945. Formal acknowledgement from the Japanese government of this crime remains outstanding.
The hope for reunifying the two Koreas is thematic throughout this park. The untold number of families separated by the forced division are now almost nonexistent after almost 75 years of separation. Tragedies compounding tragedies.
I was relieved that we had a calm day at the border for the visit.
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Tour guide Grace sharing history/visit context
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| Stay out |
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| Unification Bridge |
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| Pyeonghwauijong The Peace Bell |
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| Pyeonghwauijong The Peace Bell |
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| Pyeonghwauijong The Peace Bell |
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| Freedom Bridge |
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| Steam locomotive history |
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| Messages of hope |
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| Comfort Women Tribute |
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| Keeping my directions straight |
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Guess the souvenir shop
was the 1st business set up
once the armistice was signed |
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| Paju Imjingak Peace Gondola |
Next stop was to visit the 3rd infiltration tunnel (yes, there was two other tunnels previously discovered) the South Koreans discovered that the North Koreans were digging in order to invade South Korea. What I found fascinating about this story is that the South Koreans were completely unaware of this tunnelling activity until a North Korean defector mentioned it. It then took SK about three years to find the tunnel. And now, it's a tourist attraction.
I skipped going down into the tunnel as I had zero interest. I've provided a link above for anyone curious about what the tunnel looks like.
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| Crossing Unification Bridge into CCL |
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| Get your passport ready to enter CCL |
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| All about the tunnel |
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| Let's visit SK |
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| Tunnel exhibition entrance |
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| Entrance up close |
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| Hope runs eternal |
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| Instagram anyone? |
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| More for Instagram |
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| New Dora Observatory from a distance |
Welcome to our tour's last stop; a stop that I found quite odd. The SK's built this large building with a 500 seat theatre so visitors could sit and look into North Korea. We were offered binoculars to get an up close view of what living in destitution is like. Perhaps we would see a North Korean riding a bicycle. Oh, btw, you are barred from taking photos of North Korea - just stored what you see into your memory. Our tour guide did share video and photos she had to ensure we had a lasting memento from our visit.
Each Korea has built a propaganda village near their side of the DMZ. They had a short lived competition to have the highest flag pole, a competition won by NK (160 m high vs 100 m for SK).
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| Observatory |
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| 500 seat theatre to watch North Korea |
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| South Korea |
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| South Korea |
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| NK |
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| NK |
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| NK |
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| NK |
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| NK |
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| SK Propaganda Village |
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| North Korea Propaganda Village |
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| NK |
Tour Perspectives
I had the experience I was looking for in visiting this part of the world. I was a little disappointed in that the tour omitted visiting the DMZ. The one key area that has been eliminated from the tour is the Joint Security Area. This is the area with the famous blue buildings where ongoing reunification meetings are held. This is the same area where President Trump has his photo op with NK dictator Kim Jong Un a few years ago.
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| Image from internet |
Where I was relative to NK
The thin black line just above the blue dot (that's me) is the demarcation line between the two Koreas.
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| Position relative to Seoul |
Power Grid
The following night time satellite images taken in 2014 (left) and 2024 (right) show how little electricity is consumed (available for consumption) in North Korea. The black space in these images is North Korea; China is just above and SK is just below.
Fast facts from CBS News (2011)
'According to the World Bank, North Korea consumed just 739 kilowatt hours per capita in 2011, whereas South Korea was at 10,162 kilowatt hours per capita. (For comparison’s sake, Iceland had the highest consumption rate, at 52,374 kilowatt hours per capita. The lowest, Haiti, had a consumption rate of 32 kilowatt hours per capita.)'
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| 2014 satellite image |
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| 2024 satellite image |
Sokcho
I'm on a mission to spend more time exploring the SK outdoors to balance the time I am spending in the urban areas. I've booked a four night stay in Sokcho, a city sitting on the eastern coast with easy access to the beach and to Seorksan National Park. The park is consistently rated as one of SK's top rated national parks.
Bus trip
I'm taking this chance to compliment Seoul's extensive and easy to navigate subway system. The only downside is all the extra exercise I seem to get when switching between the different subway lines for the transfers I need to take.
The Express Bus Terminal I need to reach for my bus ride to Sokcho was in a different location than the train station. After a curt interaction with the ticket agent, I had my ticket for the 2.5 hour ride to Sokcho. Customer service remains inconsistent - sometimes charming and engaging and sometimes abrupt and brief without a smile. Buses are almost self-service. You load your own luggage in the compartment, scan your ticket as you board and take your seat.
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| Seoul subway map |
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Monitor to confirm everyone has scanned
their ticket/is on the right bus! |
Sokcho Beach
I was at the long sandy beach after a ten minute walk. SK beaches are closed for swimming most of the year because of the strong currents and absence of life guards. The beach had just opened on July 10th and was to be closed to swimming in late August. There is an immediate drop off from the beach when you enter the water. Loads of people swimming with all types of floatation devices. The lifeguard whistle is blown at 6 pm to have swimmers exit the water for the day. The beach also has immense floodlights to light up the beach at night.
There is an extended walkway along the beach. Apparently there is a section of the walkway that has a fence with concertina wire across the top that was erected to protect against a possible North Korean invasion.
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| Cute, right? |
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| Entertainment abounds |
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| More destination distances |
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| Oh, where to next? |
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| Beach artistry |
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| Beach rules/yes, that's a great white shark photo |
And my inventory of lighthouses visited expands by one. This lighthouse was built in 1956 as the desire to expand Sokcho as a port was recognized. Some great views of the East Sea, city and the mountains surrounding the city.
I also had an interesting chat with a young man from Nepal who was about to have a job interview. He had been in SK for the last two years attending university. He was keen to visit Canada at some point. I mentioned he should think about the type of weather he wanted to experience as he planned his visit. Hahaha!
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| More steps to climb up and down |
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| Looking south to Sokcho beach |
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| Looking towards mountains |
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| Northward coastline |
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| City harbour |
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| Sokcho |
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| More coastline |
The sunrise pavilion is about 500 metres walk from the lighthouse. The pavilion consists of an upper and a lower pavilion (which was closed for renovations). Great spot to enjoy the sea and watch the sunrise (off my itinerary!).
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| Coastline |
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| Lower and upper pavilions |
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| Harbour |
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| Mountain view |
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| Mountain view |
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| Harbour view |
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| Lighthouse |
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| Lower pavilion |
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| Upper pavilion |
'Cheongcho Lake is a large natural stone lake with a circumference of 5km and 1.3㎢, that forms the center of Sokcho City.'
Easy five minute walk from my hotel to visit the lake. The area I walked around hosted a small yacht marina and an enormous fish processing plant. I skipped visiting the nearby 73.4m high observation deck in the Expo Tower. How many different views can one person absorb???
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| Love that mountain view |
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| Fish processing plant |
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| Morning catch being processed |
Back to nature I'm going! Hike until my heart is content. How quickly I learned how much I've been ignoring my aerobic capacity. I had a couple hikes in mind; reaching the top of Ulsanbawi Rock and visiting a series of three waterfalls along a single hiking trail. I had a couple of days for the two hikes so I could enjoy my time. A local bus dropped passengers off at the park entrance so access was easy.
Did I mention how SK bus drivers are similar to Barbados bus drivers? Must be a common bond in the bus driving world. In SK, the drivers go at breakneck speed from bus stop to bus stop, breaking hard at each stop and lurching hard as they get going again. Riders beware.
It's a 7.6 km return hike (just shy of 5 mi) from the park entrance to the top of Ulsanbawi. Key words - 'top of!' The last 1.6 km (1 mi) is various degrees of uphill including a series of steep staircases. I've learned how much I dislike walking on stone staircases as well.
The first part of the hike is on a combination sealed path that transitions to gravel surface. There are a couple temples to visit along the way. The next transition is ascending the 1.6 km of steps to reach the top. I was at the road to steps transition point when I stopped to ensure I was going in the right direction. A construction worker, noticing my hesitation, motioned to confirm that the stone steps was indeed the direction to be going in. A fellow worker reached into a water cooler and handed me a bottle of cold water to ensure I was properly hydrated. It was a long mile to go with frequent stops to catch my breath. I also took a break to visit the grotto found about .6 km up the path. My legs and calves were up to the challenge, the lungs were working extra hard. The biggest blessing was the overcast sky during the upward ascent as the direct sun would have added a whole new dimension to the climb.
'The Gyejoam grotto was built by Vinaya Master Jajang in the sixth year of Queen Jindeok of Silla (652). It is a place where three Buddhist order progenitors, Jajang, Dongsan and Bongjeong, practiced Buddism, and was inherited by Buddhist master Wonhyo and Buddhist order progenitor Uisang, so it is called “Gyejoam,” which means “inheriting progenitors grotto.” Among the rock clusters, a grotto hermitage was built in the cave under Moktakbawi Rock with the most rounded shape.'
I eventually succeeded getting to the top where I had the unexpected gift of meeting three fellow climbers - Christina (USA east coast), Trina (2 hours from Adelaide) and Ilan (dental student from Valencia, Spain/originally from France). We had a wonderful free ranging convo about traveling and life in general. Ilan suggested a group photo as we were about to begin the descent. Our photographer was from Copenhagen, Denmark.
The descent was so much easier. During a break on the way down, I had a chance to chat with the Danish photographer and his two friends. I was curious what they could share about Denmark given I planned to be there in the latter part of August. Copenhagen is laid back, beautiful and expensive. Lots of nature activities outside the capital.
Several climbers in my age group to keep me motivated to reach the summit. If they could keep going so could I.
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| That's the rock I heading to! |
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| Park Entrance |
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| Great. More Asian bears! |
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| Friends on the way |
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| Lay of the land |
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World's largest seated Buddha statue
- nearly 15m (45 ft) tall;
part of Sinheungsa temple
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If there are rocks, people are compelled to
stack them up |
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| Here's the path to Ulsanbawi Rock |
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| Gyejoam Grotto |
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| Gyejoam Grotto |
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| Gyejoam Grotto |
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| Gyejoam Grotto |
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| Caught in the nick of time |
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| View from summit |
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| View from summit |
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| View from summit |
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| View from summit |
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| View from summit |
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| Trina, Christina and Ilan (l- r) |
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| View from summit |
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| View from summit |
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| Stone steps - going up |
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| Stone steps - going down |
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| Look up, way up! |
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| Keeping track of my progress |
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| Just the facts, ma'am |
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| Every step of the way |
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| Beauty and majesty |
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| The lower part (and flatter) of trail |
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Steps to summit - enjoy the climb!
Borrowed photo - I forgot to take my own! |
Cable Car
My first stop on Day 2 was the cable car ride. Ropeways have now given way to cable cars as we switch countries. There was a trail leading up from the upper cable car terminal leading to an open area to take even more park photos. Nonstop jaw dropping scenery, n'est pas?
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| Lay of the land - 2nd time |
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| Looking towards top terminus |
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| Looking at base |
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| View from the top |
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| Guide to what you're looking at |
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| Giant seated Buddha from above |
Biryong Falls Trail
Day 2's adventure continued with a 4.8 km (3 mi) return hike to see three different waterfalls along this trail. I had lower expectations on what I would see given the time of year and the very dry conditions. It's the journey and not the destination, right?!
The three falls, in order of ascent, are Yukdam, Biryong and the granddaddy of them all, Towangseong Falls Observatory that is the prize at the end of a 400 m steep staircase from Biryong Falls.
My assumption about the lack of water was correct. I enjoyed the stroll in the park, the communing with Mother Nature and the gift of mobility which made this hike possible!
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| Yukdam Falls |
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| Yukdam Falls |
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| Biryong Falls |
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| Biryong Falls |
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| Fellow hiker |
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Imagine a wall of water cascading
from the right side of this mountain |
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Small trickle of water if you looking
really close |
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| What the waterfall looks like when it has water |
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| More beauty from the Observatory |
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| Small sample of 400m staircase |
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| Biryong Falls |
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Suspension bridge installed as a
tourist attraction |
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| Good bye Ulsanbawi Rock! |
Gangneung
A 70 minute bus ride south took me to Gangneung, a city with where I could enjoy more famous SK beaches and proximity to Odaesan National Park where I could continue my outdoor adventures. I had another wonderful tourist information centre experience at the Gangneung Intercity/Express Bus Terminal. I walked away with great bus route instructions and a couple maps to guide me in my travels. I continue to be blessed with meeting South Koreans who have invested considerable effort to learn English.
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Photos (and English text) are worth
a thousand words - hahaha |
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| Part 2 of info board |
Welcome to the hidden beauty of Gangmun Beach (and the plethora of hotels found along the beach!). It's also an area that is known for its coffee culture. What a great combo - beach life and coffee!
This beach is similar to Sokcho Beach with a fast drop off and loads of swimmers using flotation devices in the water. The added feature on this beach is the short section for surfers. A more expansive beach for surfing is located north of where I was.
This beach, located adjacent (north of) to Gangmun Beach, is part of Gyeongpo Provincial Park. Enjoy my solitary photo below.
I dedicated my Saturday to visit Odaesan National Park to enjoy its beauty. I had a series of interesting unexpected adventures that enriched my experience!
Inaugural Korean Rail Train Ride
My first life enriching experience was sparked by my last minute decision to take the train (instead of a bus that I had reserached) to Jinbu where I was to catch the local bus to the national park. The Gangneung Train Station was an earlier stop on my bus to the bust terminal. How convenient! The train ride, according to Naver, would get me into Jinbu so much faster. That was the theory.
The train ride was a great 19 minute experience. Left on time, arrived on time with a comfortable seat equipped with a wireless mobile phone charger. How sweet is that! What I soon discovered is that the Jinbu train station was a 25 minute walk from where I might catch the local bus to the park. My hiking, albeit in an urban setting, starts earlier than expected.
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| Train station art installation |
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| PyeongChang 2018 Winter Olympics |
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| PyeongChang 2018 Winter Olympics |
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| PyeongChang 2018 Winter Olympics |
Local Bus Ride
My second unexpected adventures arose from my mistaken belief I had to stop off at the National Park Office before proceeding to the park itself. What I soon discovered, after disembarking the bus, is that the bus I was on was on its way to my intended first destination - Woljeongsa Temple & Fir Tree Forest which was about a ten minute bus ride further up the road.
I ended up getting off the bus after my intended bus stop as I guess the bus driver must have been confused about me wanting to stop. I was blessed to have two park rangers assist me in getting my bearings. The first ranger who assisted me confirmed the bus schedule and where the bus stop was (the one I originally missed when I wanted to exit the bus). She provided all this assistance through her good will, limited English and maps. The second ranger, who spoke English more fluently, put the finishing touches to assisting me. He did so, knowing that I was delaying him from what appeared to be three anxious colleagues.
I received my next gift from the universe at the bus stop which happened to be in the midst of an expansive roadside vegetable stand (that I forgot to take photos of). I was treated to the most kind SK hospitality when the owner realized my plight. His elderly mother provided me with her stool so I could wait the thirty minutes in comfort (and in the shade) to the next bus. The owner offered me a cold drink, wanted to know how old I was (he's 65) and cautioned me about how the local bus usually zoomed by this particular bus stop (rarely used, I suspect). After several minutes of chatting, he disappeared to resume his work. He, and a fellow colleague, reappeared as the bus' appointed time approached. He went out to the roadside to wave down the bus as it was zooming by. The bus driver hit the brakes and I was back on my way with a big smile and wave from the owner. How lucky can I be?
One last note on this part of my bus ride. I noticed a couple young women on the bus who I exchanged pleasantries with. They reappear in my story at the Jinbu Intercity Bus Terminal as another yet unexpected and most welcome blessing.
My original plan had been to visit this temple, then hike 9.3 km to the Sangwonsa Temple. My various diversions throughout the day convinced me to drop the hiking in favour of taking the bus to the next temple.
'Woljeongsa was founded during the reign of Shilla Queen Seondeok (643 C.E.) by the Precepts Master Ven. Jajang (590-658 C.E.) While practicing Buddhism in Tang Dynasty China, the Ven. Jajang had an encounter with Manjushri, and received the transmission of some Sarira of the historical Buddha.' The temple was completely destroyed during the Korean War due to is strategic location (and now completely rebuilt!)
I discovered, while walking about the temple grounds, that a 28 day temple stay was offered to anyone interested in an intensive program to fine tune their meditation skills and adopt a monk's life for a month. How did I learn this? I intersected with Kiran, a young student (less than 21), who had been at the temple since July 1st. He was super keen about the experience he was having. It was apparent from our conversation that he was losing his sense of the day of the month we were at. What an extraordinary experience to have so early in life. Such an incredible place to be immersed in this program. Kiran was keen on developing his meditation skills. Amazing how Google continues to change each of our lives. You can find more info about the temple and the temple stay program through the link I shared above.
'The thousand-year-old fir tree forest is a good place to walk in self-reflection and the trail along the stream will give you an opportunity to be one with Mother Nature.'
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| Reminder what temple I was visiting |
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| Bridge leading to temple |
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| First temple gate |
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| 2nd gate |
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| Carving on 2nd gate inner door |
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| Carving on 2nd gate inner door |
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| Image on 2nd outer gate door |
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| Image on 2nd outer gate door |
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Temple's best known culutral property
nine story pagoda |
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| Temple's best known culutral property |
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| Jeokgwangjeon (Hall of Stillness and Light). |
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| Jeokgwangjeon (Hall of Stillness and Light). |
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| Jeokgwangjeon (Hall of Stillness and Light). |
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| Focus on carvings |
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| Temple's best known culutral property |
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| So many lanterns |
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| Carvings inside first gate |
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| Carvings inside first gate |
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| Fir Tree Forest |
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| Fir Tree Forest |
'Welcome to Sangwonsa Temple, a historic and culturally significant tourist destination. This temple holds a rich history that dates back to the 12th year of Silla Queen Seondeok. Sangwonsa Temple was originally established by Buddhist monk Ja Jang, and it was later rebuilt during the 4th year of King Seongdeok’s reign in 705. Over the centuries, the temple has faced challenges, including a devastating fire in 1946. However, it was lovingly restored in 1947, ensuring that its cultural heritage remains intact.'
I did manage to miss the The Bronze Bell of Sangwonsa which is one of the most treasured possessions of Sangwonsa Temple and is considered a National Treasure of South Korea. This remarkable bell, constructed during the 24th year of King Seongdeok, stands as the oldest bronze bell in the nation. With a height of 1.67 meters and a diameter of 91 centimeters, it produces a beautiful, clear ring that resonates through the temple grounds.
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| Image from Google search |
On the plus side, I was able to capture a few seconds of a monk chanting inside the temple. See video clip below!
Return Trip to Gangneung
The universe gifted me with two more blessings as I was making my return trip to Gangneung. The first blessing happened as I was settling in to my one hour wait for the next bus to Jinbu. I had noticed a couple getting into a car a short distance from me. Then, I saw the same couple exit the car with the man approaching me to offer me a ride in the car instead of waiting for the bus. This couple, who I learned were visiting the park for the first time, had been offered a ride by a local resident to their car near the Woljeongsa Temple. The driver had also agreed to drop me off at a supermarket in Jinbu. The Seoul based couple were conversant in English so they shared they had the most rewarding hike between the two temples, the same hike I had intended to do. They mentioned the hike did take them three hours to cover the nine km - an uphill hike through gorgeous woods and mountain views! They also shared that the driver had mentioned he had hiked the area over 800 times, had hike in Europe and was 82 years old. The driver appeared to be super fit. The couple parted company with the driver and myself by their car. The remaining 20 minute journey was in silence until we arrived at the supermarket. He motioned to the supermarket, shook my hand (man, what a strong grip!) and said goodbye.
My final major blessing in the day started at the bus terminal. The two young women I exchanged pleasantries with on the local bus earlier in the afternoon were at the bus terminal with plans to be on the same bus as me. The most amazing convo started after I jokingly mentioned that I thought the two of them were following me. Annie and Robin were teachers from South Africa teaching English in South Korea. Annie was living/teaching in Daegu for the past 18 months and Robin was teaching in Gangneung for the past six months. Annie had encouraged Robin, her friend from the time they were babies in hospital (Annie was born five days after Robin). Annie had the most amazing personal story to share. She decided to seek adventure after finishing her education degree in South Africa wanting to avoid getting into a routine in South Africa without seeing the world. She dreamt she was teaching in South Korea one night and now she is leaving her dream! Another courageous person met on my journey. What is so inspiring about meeting Annie is listening to her talk passionately about her teaching and her students. Such energy, enthusiasm and commitment!
One final blessing for the day. Returning safely to my hotel. Most grateful to the universe for the most extraordinary day in South Korea!
Administration
I found this website
Mind your manners and etiquette that covers the basics you need to know (and demonstrate) as a guest while traveling in Japan. This information should help you prepare for your visit and/or provide you with a starting point to investigate this important topic in more detail. Happy reading!
Next Week
I meander down SK's east coast visiting national parks and cultural sites along the way. I leave Gangneung for Andong, the former capital long ago, on Monday. This is the place to go if want to experience the real South Korea. Next stop is likely is Gyeongju-si, a city in the midst of an urban national park full of historical sites. Thinking Pohang after that so I can attend my first Korean baseball game and follow-up on Annie's tourist site suggestions.
I'd be delighted and honoured to 'see you' next week! Stay happy and healthy!
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