Salam my friends!
Apa kabar? How are you?
Welcome! I'm grateful to have you join me for another week of adventure. As you'll learn through this blog, I've had the gift of another interesting and engaging week exploring Sumatra.
I hope you've had an equally interesting and engaging week. I encourage to take a few minutes to think about (and be grateful for) the blessings and moments of magic you've received during the past week. You'll quickly recognize the multitude of small gifts you consistently receive every week.
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| So begins the blessing of living another day! |
I've have people try to assist me in my travels through their friends or business associates. Unfortunately, this assistance was offered at a premium price so I can to find alternatives. For example, I was connected with a taxi driver in Banda Aceh (Uncle Bob) who offered to drive me from the bus terminal to the ferry boat terminal for 2x the cost that Grab was charging. My Banda Aceh Grab taxi driver gave me his contact on Sabang Island who offered to pick me up for what I learned was over 3x the standard rate. Beware of people bearing gifts - the price may be steep.
A quick word about the weather. Hot and humid! Daily high is averaging 32C (90F). There is the periodic rain storm as the season is slowly transitioning from wet to dry. The equator slices through Sumatra just north of Padang meaning there is limited temperature change in the evening.
The Sumatran people continue to be friendly, generous with their hospitality and helpful if I need assistance. It feels like down home hospitality one receives in rural North America. Honest, genuine and sincere.
I'm also making the most of my limited Bahasa vocabulary. I'm getting the impression, from how the locals react to my simple attempt to communicate in Bahasa, that this is novel. I get smiles and encouragement, when the people finally understand what I'm trying to say!
Something novel in my travels - most Indonesian ATMs dispense cash without charging a service fee. Choosing a BRI or BNI ATM, which are universally available (remote areas excepted), are a safe choice for fee free withdrawals.
May the universe bring endless blessings and moments of magic 🦄 to you and your loved ones in the week ahead. 🙏
Travel Administration
Local businesses getting recognition through reviews on Google Maps in an important differentiator. While the reviews can be imperfect, they've been helpful to find hotels, bakeries, restaurants, grocery stores throughout my travels. I encourage to share your experience, good, bad or mediocre, by completing a review. I know first hand that the owners of small businesses appreciate your support. They are keen to make improvements as necessary and, of course, are happy to hear that you are happy with your experience!
Travel Update
I'm just lingering over my travel itinerary for the remaining two weeks in Sumatra. It all hinges on if I decide to stay two or four days on Sipora Island. I'll likely fly to Medan from Padang, then work my way towards Berastagi and Lake Toba. I fly to Brisbane, Australia from Kualunamu International Airport (outside Medan) on Sunday, May 3.
Travel Maps
Lots of traveling over the past week! Ferries, scooters, Grab taxis, hotel shuttle service, overnight buses and flights. I reached the northern most point in Indonesia, then returned to Medan to fly to Jambi through Jakarta. It was a little more travel than I anticipated. I was blessed that everyone working in this variety of travel services showed up to do their jobs safely.
Indonesia (Sumatra): April 7 to May 3, 2026
Pulua Weh (Sabang)
Who could resist the temptation to visit an island that is promoted as the island paradise that Bali used to be? Sumatrans love visiting this island paradise which I discovered has a little of everything including snorkeling and diving. The comparison with Bali is a long stretch in my mind. Bali's beaches are significantly better. This is a great location to enjoy a holiday with an authentic local flavor. Friendly people everywhere who are curious about you, where you are from and interested how they could make your stay that much better.
Fast Ferry - Banda Aceh to Sabang
The overnight bus arrived in Banda Aceh about 45 minutes ahead of schedule. I had a glimmer of hope I could take the 8 am fast ferry, however, that opportunity was dashed given I had booked a taxi to pick me up at 8:15. The driver did show up earlier after I contacted him, just not early enough. It's s fifteen minute taxi ride from the bus terminal to the ferry terminal. Local taxi drivers actively deny that Grab is available in Banda Aceh.
Note you can purchase your ferry tickets online or purchase them at the harbour. The harbour's ticket wickets open an hour before each sailing.
I was blessed with a sunny day and calm seas for the 45 minute crossing!
BTW - the island is known locally as Sabang which is also the main community on the island.
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| Leaving one island for another island! |
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| Approaching Sabang |
Hotel Room View
Welcome to Freddies in Sabang! I had an important choice when I checked in. Was I going to take the larger fan equipped room that overlooked the sea without a/c or select the smaller room with a/c and no view? I opted for the sea view, sucked it up with the warmer room temperature, loved listening to the surf and revelled in witnessing the morning sunrise from my balcony. The room was comfortable and in serious need of power washed and being updated. When I look at the bigger experience, the room was clean and serviced daily. Another moment when I was happy to be traveling alone, as the room may have been less favorably viewed by a traveling companion.
BTW - There is a Freddie (Rousseau)! He introduced himself one morning as I was having coffee in the restaurant that overlooked the water. He's originally from South Africa, having now lived in Sumatra for over 30 years. He mentioned when he was recently in South Africa visiting he was perpetually cold. He also came by on a second occasion to say hi and thank me for staying at his hotel.
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Wide open sea - facing Bay of Bengal to the
north; Indian Ocean to the west |
Road Trip
I was on a two fold mission with my scooter rental:
- Reach Kilometer 0; Indonesia's northern most point; something I could add to my growing list of unusual extreme points of interest.
- Visit Iboih Beach which I had learned from Stefanie was Sabang's tourist epicenter - home to snorkeling and diving. I needed to know what I was missing. Oh, another piece of information that I may have benefited from if I had done more thorough research.
Scooter
When I inquired about renting a scooter, I was quizzed about my personal comfort with navigating the island's hilly terrain. Hmmm! I wondered if all potential scooter renters were asked the same questions or was just this me, the older guy! I was also keen to rent only a scooter given my limited experience driving motorized two wheelers! More than enough for me! The cost: 110,000 Rp (~$8.75 CAD/$6.41 USD) plus petrol (about $1/liter). Helmet was included which fitted my head perfectly. How did they know?
KM 0
I reached my destination, but only after taking a more scenic route because I missed a turn which would have been a more direct route. Thank goodness I'm on an island so I only have so many choices to make. Getting seriously lost maybe inconvenient and is a non-issue.
I enjoyed the error of my ways as the road I was on was far less traveled and picturesque. The less traveled is important for me when it comes to cars and trucks as the roads are narrow.
Here's another instance where I was so absorbed in my surroundings I forgot to take photos to share with you! My rental friends were wise to ask about my comfort with navigating the terrain as the island is hilly. All an adventure in the end!
I received one new scooter driving tip from the attendant collecting the admission and parking fee at the KM 0 site. He reminded me which hand brake operated the front and back brakes. He reinforced that squeezing the wrong brake will have me going over the front wheel!
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| Mission accomplished! |
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Unsure the purpose of the
structure in the background! |
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| Vendor gauntlet leading to KM 0 |
Iboih Beach
The water just off Iboih Beach is renowned for its snorkeling. Just across the bay is Rubiah Island where additional snorkeling and Rubian beach is found. This area also has the two dive shops on the island. The skies were overcast with light rain which may account for all the boats on the beach instead of people. Vacationers are ferried across to Rubiah Island on small boats. The beach looks ok, much more 'natural' compared what is found on Bali or Lombok.
The village was significantly smaller than Sabang with what I thought was limited accommodations. Perhaps I made the right choice in where I stayed after all - given what I was looking for. Iboih Beach is about 40+ minutes drive from the harbour where Sabang was about 20 minutes. I guess if my intentions were snorkeling and diving, Iboih Beach would have been ideal. However, the limited options will out of the water may have bugged me.
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| Iboih Beach |
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| Iboih Beach |
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| Rubiah Island across the water |
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| Village looking up island |
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| Village looking towards Sabang |
Random Sign
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A roadside sign I discovered during my
return trip to Freddies |
Breakfast location
I often find a restaurant near to my accommodation to enjoy a 'local' breakfast. I was rewarded with this restaurant which was across the road. The relationship started with me trying to find the crisps that I saw Freddies staff enjoying on my first afternoon. I found the crisps. I also found two women making
timpan, a sweet that has coconut/coconut milk as an ingredient. My interest sparked Agumawati to offer me a sample. The sample led to the discovery of breakfast being served from 6 - 11 am. I was sold.
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| My breakfast hangout |
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| Store with my homemade crisps |
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Eating area; drinks are supplied from the store
opening on the left. They also operate a motorcycle
scooter parking lot on the right. |
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Where breakfast magic is made; fresh coconuts
on the left! |
Heat sealing - back to basics
Here's what I witnessed when I asked for a larger bag of crisps. A bag was filled with crips from a larger container. The bag was then heat sealed using a candle. Tried and true sealing technique!
Friends
Breakfast/Fresh Coconut Water/Home made crisps...
Please meet my chef for my daily traditional breakfast (non-spicy, that is) on Sabang. My apologies for forgetting her name! I know she is originally from Indonesia's Kalimantan region on Borneo. Another person with an extra dose of personality. I gave her the Nepalese scarf I recieved at the water project ribbon cutting. Somehow seemed so appropriate.
I'm also delighted to introduce Agusmawati who seemed to be helping out with the store, the breakfast and the drinks shop operating out of the same building. She's married to Zakheil who was unavailable when I was taking these photos on my last day. Agusmawati is another person with personality plus whom I've been blessed to meet. Personality trumps the language barrier universally!
I had three other scarves that I left with other deserving people associated with this business enterprise.
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| Meet Agusmawati |
Freddies
I'm pleased to introduce Audya Octaviany, a fun member of Freddies team. She's representing the entire hotel team whom I thought were kind, thoughtful and engaging. Audya happened to be my waitress for lunch on my last day. She was particularly fun and engaging.
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| Audya Octaviany |
Andi
I met Andi and his lovely wife who were visiting Sabang for their honeymoon while enjoying my breakfast. They were curious where I was from, if I was traveling alone and my impressions of the island. Andi had several friends working in the Vancouver, Canada area, a place where he'd like to end up working as well. He was an apprentice welder working in Brunei.
The couple lived in Medan. They had made the 12 hour trip on their motorcycle to Sabang. On the morning I met them, they were driving to Iboih Beach to snorkel.
Andi returned after saying goodbye to ask if we could stay connected through WhatsApp.
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| Andi's memory pic for me |
Sunrises
I decided I should try to be more 'artistic' with my sunrise photos. All I had to do is get out of bed around 6 am, make my instant coffee and watch the universe do its magic with the sky. My discomfort with the lack of a/c disappeared instantaneously, displaced with the natural beauty I was a witness to every morning!
April 13
April 14
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| Sunset sky - bonus |
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| Sunset |
April 15
Banda Aceh
My main reason for visiting Banda Aceh was to have a first hand experience with the community that we witnessed being devastated by the December 26, 2004 tsunami that killed hundreds of thousands of people in this part of the world. About 170,000 people died in this area. It was a sobering and somber pilgrimage. The universe's power for devastation seems unlimited!
My pilgrimage's first stop was experiencing this enormous generator ship which the tsunami carried about 2.5 km from the sea to this residential neighborhood. A small area was cordoned off in developing this museum to help preserve the actual area devastated. The ship was used to generate electricity for remote villages on the coast. The museum inside ship retold the story (in Bahasa only). The accompanying photos help bridge the language gap quire readily!
'Imagine a colossal steel ship (2,600 tons) that, by a twist of fate, ended up right in the heart of a city block. The PLTD Apung Museum is a unique and deeply moving site in Banda Aceh, featuring a massive floating power station swept inland by a powerful tsunami.'
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| Memorial |
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| Here's the ship |
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| Museum inside the ship |
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| Inside ship |
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Video sequence establishing location/distance
traveled from the sea |
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| Inside ship |
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| Inside ship |
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| Rear view of ship |
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| Looking to ship's bow |
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| Road where ship came to rest |
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| Including guardrail for context |
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| Buildings left standing in park area |
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| Ship's stern view |
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| 'Roadside' view |
Museum Tsunami Aceh
Next stop was Museum Tsunami Aceh. I was fortunate the two museums were within 35 minutes walking distance from my hotel. I also made the informed decision to start my walking early as the heat and humidity does make walking a toasty experience!
The museum is a remarkable tribute to the community, those who perished, the world community whose generous response was amazing and the survivors who carried on after the tsunami. The curators found that special combination of images to capture the experience without the need for overwhelming graphic detail.
Sobering and somber!
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| Entrance |
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Teachers asked if I would pose with their students.
Take a close look at the student's faces! |
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| Interesting staircase |
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This passageway is designed to represent
the tsunami's wave height (30m/100 ft) |
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| Walk amongst the tsunami experiences |
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| Bridge of Peace |
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Bridge of Peace - recognizing the nations
who responded to help the community |
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| Simple artistic beauty |
'This mosque was built and rebuilt across three centuries of conflict, colonial rule, and independence, this mosque miraculously survived the 2004 Indian Ocean tsunami that destroyed the surrounding district.'
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| Tower, with elevator, to see local area |
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| Thought the fan structures were intriguing |
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| Mosque entrance |
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| View from tower |
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| Mosque - view from tower |
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| Fan structure - open and closed examples |
My final pilgrimage stop was the boat on the roof. This boat saved 59 people! Click on the link above to read the BBC story capturing the drama of that day.
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| Boat's hull on house |
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| Buildings behind the boad |
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| Boat hull on supports |
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| Hull on building |
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| Hull on building |
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| Boat's deck |
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| Surrounding city and landscape |
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| Surrounding city and landscape |
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| Boat's bow |
Goodbye Banda Aceh
It's Thursday night, almost time to head to the bus terminal for the overnight bus to Medan. My 8 pm bus is scheduled to arrive in Medan at 8:30 am. My domestic flight boards at 10:50 am. It's about an hour taxi ride to the airport from the bus drop off location. So, if every little thing works harmousily, I should be ok.
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| Bridge leading towards Grand Mosque |
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| Bridge leading towards Grand Mosque |
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My overnight bus to Medan.
Gosh, I hope it runs on time! |
Jambi
More to share next week! Saturday was a travel recovery day!
Gifts from friends
I've been remiss in missing the opportunity to share more photos I received from the amazing people/fellow travelers I've met in my travels. Here are some photos I've been recently gifted! How blessed I am with the extraordinary generosity, kindness and thoughtfulness from the people I've met.
Ted
My friend from Oklahoma, USA reaches Everest Base Camp! Congratulations Ted!
Jane
My friend from Thunder Bay, Canada reaches Everest Base Camp on the same day as Ted! Congratulations Jane!
Tristan
My friend from France, who I met in the Maldives, is currently traveling in Thailand with his parter Inès. They landed to Bangkok on 2nd April, then traveled to Chiang Rai and Chiang Mai. The photos below are from their travels in Koh Tao, Thailand!
Hester
My friend from the Netherlands shares her sunrise experience on Mount Sibayak (Sumatra)!
Stefanie
My friend from Bangkok shares her sunrise experience on Mount Sibayak and her view of a gorgeous waterfall (Sumatra)
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| Sipiso-Piso waterfall |
Next Week
Another week of travel and adventure awaits me. I'll spend three nights in Jambi, travel by bus to Padang for a couple nights, then on a fast ferry to Sipora Island for at least two nights. The narrative becomes a little hazy at this point. My future travel plans depends on if I extend my stay on Sipora for an additional two nights. I'll be making that decision after I check in my accomodation on Wednesday! Oh, the fun of traveling with David!
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